Time for some winter cragging at Charleston!

John Entwisle, Nick Cradock, Murray Ball and Glenn Einam have been busy creating more new quality routes at Charleston. John recently sent us the following report and pics:

Winter is nearly here, so while it's freezing in Wanaka, raining in Christchurch and the southerlies are blustering into Wellington the sun is shining at Charleston. Time to go to sample the delights of climbing on granitic rock above the waves. I've crossed the Divide three times recently, while Nick Cradock has been often enough to become a local property owner and almost a Coaster. Along with various friends he has created a collection of new routes in the modern style. I've described them from north to south. The grades and stars are from a limited number of ascents so any feedback is welcome.

Nick on Change of Guard (17)

White Wall

The S facing cliff on Pt Robertson.
Approach via rocks from Joyce's Bay. One section of exposed but easy scrambling leads to a good platform below the cliff. The exposed section can now be bypassed by fixed ropes in a track cut through flax over the bluff. Don't go if a more than moderate swell is running. All routes are approx 15m, have double ring anchors and some need gear(cams to #4). Excellent rock.

Routes are described R to L as you look at the cliff.
Luddites' Lament 18 * Nick Cradock
Direct Start 21 *** Murray Ball
Rarking up Rick 23 * Murray Ball
Get over it Boys 21/22 ** Nick Cradock

On a broken wall 10m to the L are
Brash Newcomer 17 Cradock/Ball
White is not Right 18 Cradock/Ball

Back at the Main Cliffs

Slammer Wall on the far left is
Droite du Senior 21 * John Entwisle
4 bolts to DBA. A little test piece for the aspiring polytechnic student leader which has seen some good plummets.

Cathedral Wall
Love Stain 21 *** Nick Cradock
A direct finish to Flying Scorpions. Straight up from the start of Shark's Breakfast on trad gear, even hex's will work, to 7 bolts and DBA. 25m. Already a classic.
Storm in a Teacup 20 *** Cradock/Ball
The route that ushered in the modern era. And controversy. Access via Shark's Breakfast to the flake and then directly up the wall past 7 bolts to DBA. 30m
It's possible to lower/abseil back down but take care to knot the end of the rope and tie the second on, otherwise you could both be shark bait.

European Cove
Approach by track from behind the top of Racing in the Streets. Push through flax to reach the top where you can either rap in from bolts on the true L of where the track meets the cove or walk around the inland edge of the cove and follow a track down and under a big chockstone to the base of the climbs. Climbs are described R to L.
Tyro 17/18 * Nick Cradock
Start up Mania for Anne then straight up wall past 2 bolts to DBA. Wires and cams to #3 for extra pro.
Fools' Gold 19 ** Dave Mcleod
Nick beguiled Paula into losing her innocence here, so now 4 bolts plus DBA
Great White Shark Hunt Variant 20 ** Nick Cradock
Start as for any of Greased Lightning, Great White Shark Hunt or The Way of the Lion to DB belay(hangers only) then climb corner and wall on the R past 3 bolts to DBA. 30m lower/rap to the ground.

Rocking Rock Cove
S of European Cove.
Approach. After the last zig-zag on the track to Cathedral Wall etc look for a track on the L - pink tape. This track continues S along the cliff lines to come out at 4 mile on the main highway. Follow it past Euopean Cove to a branch heading R.  About 10 minutes. Cairns mark the way to this cove. Below the last cairn lurks a low bolt which can be used to rap into the cove if the rocks below are greasy. Climbs are described R to L.
On the R side of the cove above the rocking rock is a double groove.
When I'm 64 23 ** John Entwisle
5 bolts to DBA. Awkward to start the first groove, then exit L from it to rest. Desperate to enter second groove. Excellent rock.
On the S wall are 2 short gear routes to a shared DBA
Climb 1 15 Nick Cradock
Climb 2 15 Nick Cradock
On the arete to the L is the result of what happens when a committee puts up a climb. It serves as a warm up for the warm up.
Scrotty Arete 15 4 bolts to DBA
Further round on the buttress is
Base Camp Mamma 18 * Nick Cradock
4 bolts plus #3 cam to DBA, a good warm up for
Mowing the Lawns 21 ** Llewelyn Reedy
Amazing what a young man will do for 6 bolts! Hard start leads to a struggle over a roof, then cruise to DBA.

Cowards Cove
After 10/15 minutes walk from turn off from main track look for tracks and cairns to W. 5 minute easy descent into the cove. Well above the swell. Look for immaculate W facing wall with a ledge and obvious crack at the top. This is White Feather Buttress. All sports routes with DBA. Looking R to L are:-
Yellow Belly 24/25 ** Glen Einam
White Feather 22/23 *** conceived and bolted by Nick and then donated to John Entwisle
Olive Branch 20/21 * John Entwisle

Prow Cove
The next cove S. A green rope handrail leads into the cove. Again above the swell. Routes are described L to R on NW facing buttress.
Change of Guard 17 * Nick Cradock
Obvious cracked trad face to DBA 25m
Choo on this 19 *** Cradock/Ball
Up diagonal trad crack to bolted L arete. DBA to enable a lower off to 2 bolt belay under the prow to allow a climb of:-
Hi Glen 18 ** Glen Einam
Sport route up the stunning RH arete to DBA.

Glen on Droite du Senior (21)