The Climber magazine Technique department

For issue 73 of The Climber we're introducing a new column in the magazine that will give you guys the chance to have your technical questions answered by an expert.
For our first installment, we've got alpine and ice guru, mountain guide and recent Everest summiter Johnny Davison on board to share his knowledge and give some advice on anything related to mountaineering.
So — have you been wondering how to predict when that ice route you want to try will be in condition? Want to know how to avoid getting in a cluster when setting a belay anchor (like in the picture above)? Or just want to know what curry paste tastes best at altitude?
Post your questions below, or email to editor@alpineclub.org.nz
[pic: Derek Thatcher]


Q: How many fixed ropes are required for an alpine guru to climb Everset, and WTF is that photo of and where TF should I attempt clip onto it?
Shutchoassup biarch njus climb ehbro ?