Weekend at Maratoto
5 October 2008 - 8:28pm
Headed up to Maratoto on the Coromandel just out from Kopu and has a rad climb, did saterday afternoon, stayed up in in the little bivvy 'cave' (thank god it didnt rain), and did two more climbs the next day.
For me this was the only my second crag outdoors in NZ and was great fun, the climb up and the o' night stay put it right up my street. Started with 400 ft Bastard-17, then Twister-20, then No Fly Zone 19 and finished of with Coller de Hors-23, all done in sun but 30-50 knot winds, made for excitement.
Lots of talk about the value of bolting vs trad and whatnot, and im sure theres an answer somewhere, but in reality, its about the climbing and it didnt really bother me that i could have fun while not being in a overtly life threatening situation on these great sport routes they have up there.
cheers to the local dudes who live in the farm and gave me some invaluable info and also to freeclimb for the excellent guide. Would recommend a trip to anyone, a bit of scope for some new development up there as well, especially a cool corner i found behind a tree. i see someones put up a hard looking route in the cave going over some steep rock, rad but it would be good in the guide if possible!
6 October 2008 - 5:24pm
#2
Oh yeah, and avoided due to it's obscurity caused by a lack of guide/knowledge, Thanks Cliff... On the positive guide side, John Van Der Werf had started labeling climbs at the base similar to Mangakewa, not sure how they are now though...
As an aside, Maratoto as I understand means "Blood Rock", is it a coincidence that after many summers there and camping for extended periods in the Bivvy cave that John took himself off the mortal treadmill? there's a spooky thought...
6 October 2008 - 11:55pm
#3
yeh, i read a bit about 'blue' and indeed its a crazy mofo of a climb up a completely featurless face with almost only chipped crimps and places where foot holds had been glued, i also noticed loads of random bolt holes in the area and 6 that would have been that campus board...they didnt really bother me, every other climb i did was definitely 100% natural save for the bolts.
11 November 2008 - 11:46pm
#4
To the best of my knowledge the steep route that traverses right out of the cave is called "Where Boys Fear to Tread" and at the time it was claimed as 26.
The Ginge and I tried it a 'few' years ago. It also has some (badly) chiped holds at the crux. We thought at the time that it was more like 27/28.. The only way it can be done that could possibly be construed as 26 is by a very tall (as in taller than me) climber, with a massive dyno from two small crimps rather than climbing through the crux.
So judging from other events at the crag it may have never been freed. But I can't remember who originally claimed it.
12 November 2008 - 5:52pm
#5
I climb at this wicked crag quite regularaly.....by maratoto standards! About twice a year. Me and Ty Culpepper climbed that route out of the cave. There is a hanger in an odd place, which makes the line of the route contrived, but we thought it to be about a 23/24. Maybe this hanger has been added after???
As for the climbing though...AWESOME.
When its too cold up there to climb, the tramp to the summit is spectacular. Try not to get lost :lol:
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12 November 2008 - 5:54pm
#6
Ive got some good pics. Can anyone tell me how to put them on?
Im pretty sure im not that dumb
12 November 2008 - 9:04pm
#7
you need to upload them to an external site, either a image hosting site or something like facebook or whatever, nething which u can right click and copy image location and then enclose with the Img button. heres a few i took of that line ages ago, plus the cool, btu wet chutey thing to the right of the caver line, but it shows the cool rock well, would be at least one more line that could go up on there, the technical slab is cool too.
13 November 2008 - 9:38am
#8
I would agree that some of the climbing is excellent. We went there quite a few times a number of years ago, but I thought almost all of the climbs had "modified holds" some extensively so, and not just the harder ones. even the really good two pitch 19 /16 had a few holds which were enhancements of the features. Probably a bit harder to tell now that a bit of weathering/ discolouration has occured.
In terms of "feel" Maratoto is a great place to climb. High, exposed, great views, no one bringing bloody music up to the crag.
BTW how are the bolts looking? Can't remember what was used up there.
13 November 2008 - 2:07pm
#9
oh, yeh that would make sense, the hold on that 19/16 all seem'd pretty natural, but the rock is not that naturally positive (save for a sick 2/3 finger pocket on the 23 that requires a dyno or a long static reach) so chipped holds could be there.
The bolts all looked solid ass when we wer there, at least 2 or 3 routes had beautiful big glued in ring bolts, a few had some non rusted bomber looking hanger/expansion bolts and one line had 2 links of chain bolted in with a washer. All looked quite well maintained and the ring bolts looked new. I don't imagine much of this is original, maybe the hanger climbs. BUt yeh, i had no issues with trusting them, in saying that i dint fall while i was there so i dont have any practical evidence! i think i might pop back up some timethis summer for another overnighter cos it really is just cool up there, and i left 2 22s untouched, plus that 26 hehe
11 January 2010 - 8:38am
#10
Any boulders lurking in those trees? ;)
13 January 2010 - 6:13pm
#11
Stoked to hear a little bit about this place first hand--I never was able to round up a partner for the trip up there. Sounds pretty interesting...
Hmmm, Yes. That crag had a bit of rumor/publicity surrounding it a decade ago and became the crag that climbers forgot, Shame really...
It seemed like such a great crag, great exposure and the afternoon sun is sooo nice... Very similar to Castle rock (which is more all day sun).
The Deceased John Van Der Werf was surrounded in controversy with the rumors of his 'Enhancing' holds both at the Quarry then Maratoto, in particular Blue (29) where the rumor there was that the holds/climb was created, named and graded without being sent... including holds/campus rungs being bolted directly to the rock on the left side of the bivy cave. From memory Blue even had a starting foot hold (rock, not plastic though) bolted on!!!
The crag was avoided by many climbers due to the potentially unnatural climbing, the long drive and the steep hill climb to the rock, when the Wharepapa region was much more accessible.
As to the climb in the cave, Any ideas anyone??? I aided it many years back and thought it may be about 27, but very cool. No idea if John 'deceased himself' before sending it or not...
Getting up in the game since ages ago...