Waipapa notes
14 December 2004 - 12:09pm
"Seen by many people as the premiere climbing spot in the North Island. Rhyolite rock ranging between 15 - 30m high, the rock is a lot more solid than the close areas of Whanganui Bay and Wharepapa, which means less pockets and more small edges. "
rowan - bold claim in the first sentence. who are these people? could be true in about 30 years but for now the Bay rules in terms of scale, quality and range of grades and styles.
and
you might want to rephrase the bit about the rock being "more solid". perhaps "more compact" would be a better choice. don't want people thinking the Bay is loose, cos it ain't.
14 December 2004 - 12:54pm
#2
Got to agree with JP - The bay is still by far the premiere
- A lake (a beautiful one at that!)
- 200+ Routes
- Grade 13 to 30
- 7m to 50m
- Rhyolite
- Awesome camping
Need I say more?
Although Waipapa is class, it can hardly be placed before the bay!
Waipapa:
- 40+ Routes
- Grade 16 -28
- 8M to 35M
- Rhyolite/ignimbrite
- COOOOOL Place to hang (Lakeside especially)
8)
Although the "real man" in me is saying the Quarry kicks ass ;)
-80 Routes
-Grade 11 to 30
-6m to 20m
- Basalt
- Views of the prison, nice motorway noise, obnoxious soccer players....hahah
Yeah, I think more info on these things on the crag DB would be useful too. (heights, grades, routes etc) - I see some info is missing on quite a few crags - OK - I reckon I can help with a couple in Wharapapa region and Mangataki. I'll let you know Rowan/Mikal.
:lol:
14 December 2004 - 12:58pm
#3
email me Morgan.. rowan@mojozone.co.nz need all the help we can get to go through and update everything. We're going to assign different areas of NZ to different people once I finalise the back end administration. So if you've got the time. well... you have :) and the inclination you can be a Mojo Contributor.
14 December 2004 - 6:53pm
#4
:roll:
Can we PLEASE get the geology approximately correct. Both Waipapa and Whanganui Bay are Ignimbrite. Also I think that the Bay has around 500 routes and Waipapa must be around 80 now, although both have some quality routes on relatively "compact" rock; not the mud with a crust variety found just just a little further north.
15 December 2004 - 9:54am
#5
thanks martyn i was just about to issue a geology lesson. the only rhyolite crag that is climbed on is kinloch (sadly motuoapa and whareroa - the other 2 great rhyolite crags are vertboten)
15 December 2004 - 12:01pm
#6
And while on the topic, I don't know if walking down the gorge is all that fun, call me a bogan from suburban christhchurch, but ain't the drive down the gorge a world of fun, especially in a rear wheel drive holden
15 December 2004 - 3:03pm
#7
Sorree about mis-informed info. Just grabbed the data from a source that actually has info on crags....climb.co.nz - anyway, now that people who know crag composition and route numbers/grades etc are putting it right - maybe, just maybe they could help Rowan and Mikal fill in the blanks?...too much to ask? There are a lot of blanks....
15 December 2004 - 3:37pm
#8
looks like you've just volunteered yourself to help out assimilate info morgan ... :)
climb.co has some hugely out of date info which is the whole idea why I built the crag database on mojo. It now just needs to be filled out with up to date info. until which time please no one bitch about it, just correct us where we make mistakes.
Craig M who supplied me the original list also gave me a number of climbs per crag which will be placed up online tonight (as a guide only, not gospel!)
15 December 2004 - 6:21pm
#9
Actually, another great rhyolite crag is Mt Maunganui.
15 December 2004 - 6:25pm
#10
That was my plan actually, but rather than get busted for plagiarism, better to have an evening with Bryce and "others" in the know, thinking up something old, but new. Same Same ..but different if you get my drift. Also, OBVIOUSLY, with the latest info on route numbers, rock type/quality, new climbs, re-bolts, possible access issues. ETC. I am possibly going down tomorrow (cross my fingers) with the Mope. So could have some blank filling, accurate input soon.
I am definelty not bitching about the site...it's better than before already! But unhelpful shit stirers...sometimes...have you nothing better to do!!! :roll:
15 December 2004 - 6:46pm
#11
awesome morgan, can you give me a bell before you go or something, 021 468 300 / 377 5663 home.
15 December 2004 - 6:53pm
#12
where is this crag 'Middle Earth'?
15 December 2004 - 7:11pm
#13
once I get the map system working I could point it out, but the co-ordinates I have are NZMG 2748000 , 6247600 .. if you're very lucky tomorrow night the geo map thingy will be up and running with fresh data.
In the vicinity of Mangatepopo Valley I think.
16 December 2004 - 1:06am
#14
Middle Earth is just north of Waihi on Lake Taupo... only a handfull of climbs there
16 December 2004 - 9:19am
#15
when i compiled the list i took every crag that had a guide book entry regardless of size/access issues. The crag databse will probably need a "reality check" to weed out the crags with only a few routes.
16 December 2004 - 10:36am
#16
Shit Stirring?, Not I. Never.
Agree with Climber that the site is already hugely better than before. I am also more than happy to help, but am probably limited to typing up info as I have never been near a website creation project. What do you need Rowan, which Crags can I help you with?
Got some Up To Date information for you. Just repeated Cliff's new route, "Checkmate" to the Right of Wet Under Foot. Absolutely brilliant, steep, 28m three star French 7b+. Go to it. Big ups to Cliff Ellery.
Also David Hood flashed Drop me in the Water on the 14th Dec. An excellent effort. Conditions down there awesome at the moment in the current weather patterns.
Grand Larceny (line right of Checkmate) has finally been completed. Next line right of Checkmate starting up Daylight Robbery. Grade 26 due to hard crux sequence though middle bulge.
Cliff mentined that people have been muttering that some of the grades at Lakeside are out. Anyone out there got any opinions on these?
Finally Andrew From Te Puke told me that more trees have toppled over the Main Cliff recently but he wasn't sure of the details. Does anyone know anything concrete?
16 December 2004 - 2:31pm
#17
is that cliff's mega project off the landing??? turned out not to be that hard eh?? looks KILLA (as they say in rotorua)
grades seemed pretty fair to me (for what it's worth).
did you check the cam sizing issue on beauty and the beast?? i'll buy anyone a beer if they can get a 1.5 friend in that break (offer limited to one beer per person per clean ascent)
16 December 2004 - 4:00pm
#18
Martyn, check your email tonight.. if you can post in this forum you can update the new mojozone... super friendly easy to update interface.......
wasn't me who wrote that ,my cohort mikal did it, must add the "Updated by xxx on yy " so you can blame the appropriate parties :)