Waipapa Lake Wall and Crack Wall access issues
10 May 2010 - 7:04am
Yesterday, I noticed that http://www.freeclimb.co.nz/ had been updated. The Waipapa guide has been modified to say that the Lake and Crack Walls are closed for climbing while access issues are resolved with Mighty River Power. I can't understand why and I hope this is only a temporary loss of access to what is, in my opinion, the best Wall (Lake Wall) on the best crag in New Zealand.
Paul
10 May 2010 - 11:18pm
#2
Pete Cammell (NZAC President) has been talking to them and yes it is closed - climbers have not helped themselves in this case ignoring closed areas etc etc as new tracks are being made for the long path through there - no workers deserve abuse ...
11 May 2010 - 4:29pm
#3
Well it wasn't us. We went to the Lakeside Wall a few weeks ago as the signs indicated the track to the "Main Cliff" was closed while they build the new MTB track along the river. Didn't see anyone. Lakeside is totally unaffected by this so I can't see a valid reason for it being closed. Be an interesteing situation if they ultimately allow MTBing, fishing and hunting on their land but not climbing.
1 June 2010 - 5:20pm
#4
I'm totally mystified as to why Lakeside Wall would be closed--it's the most remote of all the Waipapa walls. As for Carpark Wall, they removed the posted signage saying that climbing there was closed some time ago, which is kind of irrelevant since nobody climbs on that wall anyway! The loss of Cracks Wall is really upsetting, too, as it as the nicest splitters I've sank my mitts into anywhere in the world. I'm heartsick at this news--Waipapa is my favourite crag in NZ.
1 June 2010 - 9:03pm
#5
from what I heard some climbers were abusive to the workers so the landowners said stuff it, closed to climbers. Amazing what a good bit of abuse will achieve....
As cragrat says, I think there are discussions underway to rectify this
1 June 2010 - 9:32pm
#6
This from the latest Auckland Climber
Waipapa Climbing Access
Car Park Wall Closure
The Car Park wall at Waipapa is closed
to all climbers and the hardware is to be
removed. This is at the request of the land
owners, Mighty River Power, and the NZAC
fully support this decision and ask that all
climbers respect this closure and do not to
climb in this area. Climbing in this area will
only jeopardise future access to the other
crags in the Waipapa area.
Lakeside and Crack wall closures
Climbing at the Lakeside and Crack walls
are closed. The NZAC are currently in
negotiations with the land owners (MRP)
and are working on solutions to reopen
these areas. In the mean time please do not
climb at either of these locations. Climbing
in these areas will only lead to a total ban
and the removal of hardware from these
crags.
River Wall, Main Cliff and Galaxy Wall.
Climbing in these areas is still open.
However please respect any track closure
signs or requests during the construction of
the national cycleway path. Climbers have
a duty of care to respect any temporary
request by land owners to limit access to an
area. This can be done for any number of
reasons such as: Construction in or around
the area, lambing or calving or logging
If climbers want to continue to enjoy access
to private land then they must respect these
request.
2 June 2010 - 9:35am
#7
Hi Ollie. Hopefully you read these forums. Like Limburger 2 I would be really grateful to hear the reasons/ logic(?) behind some areas being open and others being closed. It makes no sense to me. Can you clarify if the path to the Main Cliff end is currently open or not. Last time were there it was closed due to construction although there was no work happening at the time.
Call me paranoid but I feel a stitch up happening here. Lakeside and Cracks Wall are closed where there is no access issue regarding the MTB track construction whereas the other crags are declared open but in the construction zone. If climbers try to visit these and the same signs are still up (with no one actually working) are we to find that MRP will use this as a reason/excuse to close the whole place.
I for one will be thoroughly pissed off if that happens; and they continue to allow access for MTBers, fishermen, pighunters etc. Dsicrimination.
Explanations please.
3 June 2010 - 10:11am
#8
Having talked to Peter Cammell, and NZAC they are upset the happenings at Waipapa, and they are working towards getting it opened again. They has been meetings between the MRP and NZAC, the wheels are moveing. BUT this will process will only work if us climbers, are good little boys and girls for a little while, and don't give MRP any ammo to close the crag. i.e. climbing where currently closed, and generally being dicks to anyone down there. Some of the logic behind the closed walls may seem dumb, but if we want the place open again then its gotta be one business to another to negotiating it. Write to the NZAC with your concerns, it will give them more backing having a bunch of emails from climbers asking for access.
3 June 2010 - 11:05am
#9
Hi Ant et al
You've described the scenario quite well I think. Right now we as a community need to demonstrate to MRP that we can comply with their wishes. Only when we have established some trust & respect in this sense can we really go to the negotiating table with any credibility. So if you go to Waipapa & find signs saying an area is closed, but there is no apparent construction happening, you need to trust that it's for good reason & NOT climb there. MRP are keen to see the crags open for climbing!
If people are keen to know more, contact me directly ph 03 3777595 or http://alpineclub.org.nz/contact/executive+officer
cheers
OLLIE
3 June 2010 - 2:29pm
#10
Thanks guys for the prompt response. So if I read this correctly you are basically saying to all out there that the crags that have been closed have been done so to see if us climbers are a responsible bunch and can follow the access rules set out by MRP.
If we can then access will be granted. Seems like a good idea to follow the rules for now for the long term good.
On a side note, it is a shame we haven't heard from those climbers who were alleged to be abusive and what circumstances this occured in. Two sides of a story always give a clearer picture than one.
Recently I have walked into K2 while tree felling was occuring. MTBers were riding the track also. The workers just stopped for a minute, made sure it was safe, let us pass and then carried on. I have also biked the Moerangi track in the Whirinaki with diggers on the track. This, apparently didn't need closing either: Just some courtesy and common sense by BOTH workers and track users.
3 June 2010 - 8:44pm
#11
Climbers are notoriously selfish and disrespectful of land ownership - I have done my fair share of "it will be alright for us". I have also tried to pick up pieces of messes others have created. Think of the greater good.
6 June 2010 - 3:58pm
#12
The story may well be true. That said, it was common knowledge in the CNI last year that MTB intended to close access to Waipapa when work began on the trail. No one knew their rationale.
I, like Martyn, certainly hope that with time a rapport can be built between climbers and the other stakeholders, and access restored.
Yes, I saw this as well. Does this mean that the "Main Crag" is still open? The situation is unclear. Does anyone have anything definitive?
Perhaps as a gesture the fixed gear on those climbs at the carpark should be removed and handed back to the people who put up the routes.
I wonder exactly what issues MRP have and who is resolving the issues? NZAC?
Martyn