Routes in NZ
15 November 2011 - 6:57am
Hi I'm coming to New Zealand next month and am hoping to do some climbing. I am curious about the availability of routes with bolted protection. I only have equiptment for sport climbing (no removable protection). Are there enough routes with bolted protection to make it worth bringing my gear? We will be traveling around both islands and are hoping to stop and do some climbing as it is available.
15 November 2011 - 9:13am
#2
Also, in the North Island aside from Waikato and the Bay: Ti Point sea cliff just north of Auckland; some bolted routes at Karangahake Gorge; Mount Maunganui; Pakeho near Te Kuiti; Mt Ruapehu near the skifield car park; Kinloch crags at the north end of lake Taupo. What sort of grade are you looking for?
If you're coming in to Auckland, the Mt Eden quarry (er, cough, cough, the Auckland Grammar School Rock Wall) is trad, but if you are there and ask you will probably get to climb, and there are boulder problems. At present only the shorter side is open but we hope that will change very soon. I'm usually up for a climb there and have gear.
15 November 2011 - 10:26am
#3
Are there enough routes with bolted protection to make it worth bringing my gear?
Short answer: yes.
15 November 2011 - 11:24am
#4
Hi,
We just arrived in New Zealand and we have the same questions. We don't have trad equipment and we practise few trad climbing, even if we enjoy it. So, we're looking mainly for sport and bouldering places to climb. We will stay one year in New Zealand and there are the places where we think go to climb :
- Wharepapa south
- Whanganui Bay
- Paynes Ford (takaka)
- Castle Hill
- Elephant rock
- Dunedin (long beach)
- Wanaka & Mont aspiring
- Queenstown (jardines & lake)
- maybe other places we'll found along the trip.
Are there other amazing places for climbing ?
If someone is interesting by climbing with us, you can send us a message with your location and it will be a pleasure climb with you ! We're in Auckland since 10 days and we are going this afternoon to Auckland Grammar School. You can join us at 022 159 45 76.
Jean-Baptiste and Léa
15 November 2011 - 1:02pm
#5
As far as I understand it the Long side (Main Wall) at Auckland Grammar is still closed but the Short side is fine.
To add to that list of places to go that are excellent.
Mangaokewa (Central NI)
Waipapa Dam (Central NI)
The Cave (Christchurch SI)
The Darrens (Milford Sound SI)
15 November 2011 - 3:22pm
#6
The Darran's is awesome for Tramping, scrambling, alpine rock routes, But the sort climbing is limited unless you climb Mid 20's +.
16 November 2011 - 3:13pm
#7
Waipapa is closed isnt it?
Kawakawa Bay (near Taupo) is a must
16 November 2011 - 4:40pm
#8
The Main wall at Waipapa is open. The only closed walls are the carpark (which is a total turd anyway) and Lakeside.
16 November 2011 - 8:35pm
#9
Second vote for mangaokewa and Kawakawa bay for north island.
Paynes ford and castle hill in the south!
17 November 2011 - 1:24am
#10
3rd for kewa. Waipapa is pretty awesome too.
South - Castle hill for sure, everything else is optional. Wanaka, Paynes are good
G
17 November 2011 - 8:10am
#11
3rd vote for Kawakawa Bay!
It's an amazing spot on the edge of lake Taupo. I'll be living out there from late Dec to mid April developing new routes. You should be able to find a copy of the new guide book in the Auckland gyms either now or very soon.
I'm happy to do guided trips too. (I have a double rack of natural gear and two ropes) :)
My numbers 022 657 4986
Cheers,
Monkeyman
17 November 2011 - 3:44pm
#12
hey monkeyman, is the new guide gonna be on freeclimb?, how can us locals get a copy (short of going to an Ak gym - shudder.....)
Craig
18 November 2011 - 2:11pm
#13
You will be able to get them at 'The Project' Craig. http://tinyurl.com/44alcmp
https://www.facebook.com/groups/106615329416014/
And I guarantee you it is nothing like the other Auckland gyms. You'll probably even have a good time there.. I think they will be hosting the Kawakawa fundraiser as well.
18 November 2011 - 3:54pm
#14
According to his profile Craig lives in Taupo?
Also, I gather the 'shudder' was more of a reference to indoor climbing in general, rather than Auckland climbing gyms specifically?
Just sayin'
17 November 2011 - 6:06pm
#18
hey, The new guide will hopefully be available by the end of November. Will post here when it's out! i'll be taking them round to all the walls in the North Island in Dec.
Taupo, Auckland and Napier will have them very soon!
We may post the new guide on Freeclimb around the end of Autum when we have established loads more routes and have to make a 2012 version.
Cheers for the interest :)
Monkeyman
24 November 2011 - 10:36pm
#19
+
Buck Rock for the North Island
14 December 2011 - 5:38pm
#20
For most, but not all, of the North Island crags, you can get (relatively) up-to-date guides at www.freeclimb.co.nz Check it out. ;-)
16 December 2011 - 1:12pm
#21
The new Kawakawa guide books have arrived! The Project (Auckland) & The Wall (Rotorua) have them already. The rest will be on there way out to the other gyms a.s.a.p in time for xmas!
Sport climbing is available in Waikato crags, Wharepapa, froggatt/castle rock, etc Whanganui bay in NI. I think Taranaki is trad but check it out as I'm not sure.
South island heaps of sport at Queenstown, Wanaka, and Takaka( over hill from Nelson). Bouldering at Castle hill/ Arthurs pass( 1hr out of Christchurch). 12 quickdraws and a 60m rope will do the trick.
You need a car to climb, it would be difficult to climb from public transport except at Takaka.