Ramset Stainless Nuts and Bolts

Spit is the way forward. I can report no problems since I have added this procedure (20 plus bolts). And, it is real, real, easy unless you have some desperate cotton mouth. That said, I have not tried to remove any of the nuts at this point. I suppose once the spit dries, then it will be possible for the problem to occur when reversing the nut, but removing the nut does not have the same friction/forces as the tighten. And, of course, you can just spit on the bolt before removing the nut. Problem solved, maybe.

I think the big advantage of spit over a pre-grease is that the bolts will not collect dirt along the way. You can buy carbon to apply but then that is added expense and another thing to forget in the car along with the spring washers and loctite. (both of which I think are useful concepts, by the way)

I will repeat that the problem gets worse if the bolt hole is not drilled perpendicular (bad practice anyway and a good subject for a future smack talk thread). The forces of spinning, pulling and torquing sideways must increase the forces significantly. When I say cold welded, I do mean welded. I have tried to hold a bolt with locking pliers while trying to remove the nut and no can do. Hacksaw is the best remedy and avoidance is the best cure.

Thanks for finding that extremely helpful article.

"Carpenter Technologies, the fastener industry's largest supplier of stainless steel raw material, refers to this type of galling in their technical guide as "cold welding." Anyone who has seen a bolt and nut with this problem understands the graphic nature of this description" 

The point about spit is a good one. I knew something might be wrong with it. Would the bolt just sheer off at the crevice or multiple crevices? I wonder how many years in might take for my spit to create a crevice large enough to cause a crater?

"Lubricating the internal and/or external threads frequently eliminates thread galling. The suggested lubricants should contain substantial amounts of molybdenum disulfide (moly), graphite, mica, or talc."

I wonder if good old chalk (magnesium carbonate) might not do the trick or even the powder dust that gets drilled out the bolt hole. It is just a crazy thought but it might just work in Wanaka.

From Wikipedia: Talc is a common metamorphic mineral in metamorphic belts which contain ultramafic rocks, such as soapstone (a high-talc rock), and within whiteschist and blueschist metamorphic terranes. Graphite occurs in metamorphic rocks as a result of the reduction of sedimentary carbon compounds during metamorphism. It also occurs in igneous rocks and in meteorites.^[3] Minerals associated with graphite include quartz, calcite, micas and tourmaline. 

"Another factor affecting thread galling in stainless steel fastener applications is thread roughness.....Generally, it is the internal thread that is causing the problem instead of the bolt. This is because most bolt threads are smoother than most nut threads. "

I have started testing all of my nut and bolt combinations to be sure they thread easily by hand up and down. I have on occassion spotted a demon nut with burs and all that won't thread properly.

It might be easier if Ramset go back to the bolts with the graphite/carbon coating. These new shiny bolts look like they have been tumble polished to make them look pretty. I wonder if the new bolts are lower quality metal. I wonder if they are less resistent to corrosion.

I find myself wandering how long it would take (in a non-marine environment like Wanaka) for a 10mm stainless bolt to corrode enough that it would break off in a dynamic fall, 100 years, 500 years, 1000 years?

When I see rust and/or surface patina on metal surfaces like chain, how do you know if the metal has corroded to the point of danger. I suppose it would be obvious but isn't rusted chain still strong.

A case study might be an achor established at Cattle Yard Crag by Cragrat (no offence intended) using a very large circumfrence old style marine chain (about 10mm guage) for the routes Lost and Still Lost. We have replaced this anchor, mainly for ease of access, but the original is still there and I have used it extensively over the last two years. I'll bet we could still hang a 5 metre great white from it with no problem.

I was doing a little more snooping around and I found the following information from Anzor - specialist in stainless fasterners:

Raw lanolin (wool grease) is a natural substance secreted by sheep to provide a protective coating on their fleece for protection in harsh conditions. Once the sheep have been shorn, the fleece undergoes a scouring and refining process to extract the lanolin and to clean the fleece.

The benefits of using Prolan for corrosion prevention, lubrication and preservation are many, both to the user and the environment. Prolan lanolin penetrates through rust to protect metal & alloy surfaces and lift rust scale. Prolan inhibits oxidation and galvanic corrosion. Prolan forms a barrier coating on treated surfaces, effectively preventing corrosive agents from reaching and penetrating the surface.

Maybe, you can just carry a hunk of oily sheep fleece in your pocket. Must try this solution!!!