Punk Rock Guide

John Entwistle and a merry band of helpers have been busy re-bolting some long forgotten classics on the Port Hills - check out the latest info on Punk Rock below and have yourself some headbangin good fun :-)

Punk Rock - John Entwisle

Like the music dated. Neglected. It had its heyday in 79/80. A brief revival in 03 and then abandoned again for the weeds to grow and for dirt to accumulate in the cracks. I took a walk under it last winter. Trad routes sprouted green, grass drooped off ledges, but underneath was a collection of cracks waiting for another revival. In December Jo Straker and I started cleaning and since then other friends have helped so that over half of the crag is now as approachable as punk can be. Please note that we have left the native ferns in place so climb around them carefully. OK it is not a great crag, but it is 15 minutes from a bus route, low down and 10 minutes from a road end that's vandal free. And it has lots of pro routes as well as several bolted eliminates.

Approach. Walk up the vacant section past the last house, once on the Captain Thomas Track cross the cattle stop and after 10metres follow the white tape markers to the crag. We started cleaning at the right hand end(as you look at the crag) so my version of the routes and grades is described from where the guidebook finishes. The last named route on the right is "Once Were Worriers"(18) an obvious crack continuing as a R-tending crack/groove to the edge of the buttress. There are now 4 routes to its R and further R (marked with tape) is a fixed rope to access the top. If you must. All the climbs described have access to double bolt anchors fitted with one of rings, chain and krabs or chain links to allow easy descents. Most anchors are visible from the ground. For pro climbs I've noted any special gear that may be needed. Most climbs are suitable for leading. The exceptions are noted. And if you can spare some time take a brush and an old chisel or similar tool to keep cleaning the cracks.

Climbs are as follows (NR denotes new route) :

Kids Arete (17) NR 4 bolts contrived as very near veg and edge, but a safe lead. Lower-off rings

Fern Crack (14) NR Pro, try to avoid clipping the bolts on the next climb . Rings

Aged Arete (16) NR 3 bolts plus med wire near the top. Rings on FC or chains on CC

Crappy Crack (17) NR As per name but cleaned to allow a turfless finish to OWW. Start up the little arete to avoid veg cracks. Chains, try to avoid blocks at the top.

Once Were Worriers (18) Crack then sloping groove which needs RP's and micro cams, also awkward exit R. Chains or continue to the top and rings

Return of the Dinosaurs (21) Up slab above crack of OWW. No pro once OWW is left! Cleaner and can now be top roped, use long slings on the rings to avoid rope drag

Jiggery Pokery (21) Arete to the L. No worthwhile pro!

A Clutch of Grass (17) Crack over bulge. Now much cleaner, takes good pro and has its own lower-off on the R

Lickin' Lichen (16) Has an extra bolt so no gear needed. Lower-off

Treasury (17) L facing corner. Needs a large cam at the top. Much trickier than its guidebook grade of 14. Rings

Plantagenet (13) Excellent pro in R facing corner. Rings

Elbow Bender (17) Gear in blocks and then bolts on the slab. Lower-off

Maindrain (19) Awkward straight crack, but eats small cams around the crux. Rings

Parlance (19) A bolt now protects the bouldery start. Excellent pro and climbing in the crack. Lower-off as for SS

Barbarous Bolters (21) Start from R. Has an extra bolt and then pro - med wires will do, and a small wire protects the move through the roof. Chains

Sidestep (11) Good fun. Arete and crack to lower-off

Truest Sport (19) Very dirty and smelly at the start, not cleaned yet as are the 2 routes below. Too much guano. Take breathing apparatus and large cams!

Don't Look Back (22)

The Great White Hope (15) Can use GFP lower-off

Schmeling to the Max (19) Arete on R. Clean, but with very poor pro and dodgy flakes! Lower-off to L

Go for pro (19) NR Start at toe of buttress, up flake crack avoiding stepping into Negative C, then thin crack to move R. Needs small cams near the top. Good pro. Chains

Negative Conditioning (12)  Obvious crack, cleanish with anchors, but would benefit from more cleaning. Perhaps 14 for the vertically challenged

Positve Reinforcement (15) NR Arete with 3 bolts plus anchor bolt of next climb with a long sling for last runner. Lower-off higher up. Boulder start up arete to ledge is harder

Paragon (12) Crack up slab and on, clean with good pro and anchors

Bits and Bolts (19) NR Climbs tiny corner on arete R of Paragon, bolt, then wires and small cams to 2nd bolt high on arete, continue up buttress past 2 bolts to double rings for lower-off

Exit Strategy (18)  Crack to overhanging bay. Well named. Good pro, finish up buttress of previous climb to lower-off

Anathema (13) Now an extra bolt to the to the 2nd lower-off

Claws (16) As per guide but a medium wire is better than a cam at the top. Lower-off

Questioning Reality (24) Clean especially of holds

New Reality Jam Session (20) Clean. Lower-off as for S

Solipsism (14) Takes big cams and hexes and a bolt on the L wall saves a grovel for gear. Lower-off over top

Ecstacy Air (22) Looks OK. Lower-off

Discombobulation (21) OK. Best to finish up EA

New Wave (16) Takes small wires well then 3 bolts to lower-off

Punktuation (23) Now has 5 bolts and a lower-off. Stick clip the first bolt unless you have 3 arms. Good sustained climbing

Solstice (16) Now has 2 bolts to protect moves near some questionable blocks.

Chains Cascade (14) Abandoned to vegetation

Voodoo (19) Watch for gheckos in the crack. Lower-off

Rhythm 'N' Blues (21) Pro OK at start and finish but in poor rock at the crux. Lower-off from AD

Phebotomist (23) Haven't tried it yet

Arcadian Driftwood (15) Have an extra grade if you don't bridge to Devo. Good pro. Lower-off

Devo (14) Hard to keep you feet off AD and hands if you like pro. Wriggle L to 3 bolt crack and distant anchor

Manipulations (19) A variation start to LP. Harder now a vital hold has gone. No pro until in LP

If you have an urge to chop the extra bolts and anchors please contact me before you do so. The bolts etc were paid for by the NZAC C/W bolting fund and money given by the City Council so that an accessible, recreational crag could be created near the city. Remember that introduced vegetation quickly reclaims this crag, so it needs to be climbed on. If you have any comments I'd be happy to discuss them with you.

Thanks to Jo Straker, John Hammond, Dale Thistlethwaite and Stuart Hollaway who all have donated time to help me.