Proposed anchors for Mt Horrible???
11 March 2011 - 4:27pm
After a few years climbing at horrible I found out of 20 or so trips there, that I only seen 1 lead of
Pareora Corner.
To setup a top rope consists of threading three wrist sized roots and attempting to divert them from the ever present rope jamming cracks that one is attempting or using your spare rope around an enourmous pine...
I find this a wee bit ridiculous.
On wednesday I was about to place a perfectly functional glue in threaded 130mm bolt anchor with 30kn hangers and was halted in my tracks by someone saying that the roots were perfectly fine and if I did place the anchor 'it would be on my head'!?!? Whom later used the roots and had his rope firmly stuck...
Ok, the evening became rather frigid and I didn't really think this was the best temps for the glue and ended up not placing the bolts and wondering wether it was needed.
So the question is does the Pareora Corner need an anchor or not??
11 March 2011 - 8:56pm
#2
THe bolts further along were placed for a commercial/educational course - SARINZ I think
11 March 2011 - 9:21pm
#3
Jesus h chrysler, use a few long slings on the tree roots, or put in some of those shiny things, cramming devices or pickaxes or whatever they're called. MH works just fine without convenience anchors.
Or better still, lead those gear-gobbling cracks.
12 March 2011 - 8:27am
#4
As I stated most of the climbing I've witnessed there is top roping. Tree roots do not last for ever and there are no cracks around PC. There's clearly no problem with leading any of these routes in respect to anchors.
Waratahs are even more unsitely than bolts and you never know what you'll find underground ie. more rock...
I've meet the guy who placed the bolts, they were placed just to allow access to that end of the crag and have worked excellently in combination with cutting down half the broadleaf...
In respect to the ethical side of bolting at MH there already a couple bolts on Turn to Gold, so its not a 'bolt free zone'. I'm not talking about grid bolting just strategic anchors.
13 March 2011 - 2:21am
#5
I haven't climbed at Horrible for over 20 years, but in the 80's Pareora Corneer was frequently led.
Tony Rooney bolted Turn to Gold and I belayed him on the first ascent. Must have been 87 if my memory serves me correctly. There was no discussion over ethics that I can recall and no real suggestion that Horrible was a "bolt-free" crag.
I would go ahead and place the anchors. If you save a life then all the ethical considerations kind of fall away.
I miss the old crag. Damn fine spot to spend a nice sunny afternoon.
13 March 2011 - 8:17am
#6
Thank you, that exactly the response I was looking for and thats presicely the point I'm getting at.
ps. it's still there and hasn't been affected by the quakes, so you can still crank it...
13 March 2011 - 7:24pm
#7
Alas. I currently live far from New Zealand. But I still have the odd daydream or two of Mt Horrible and Spur Road.
Who knows. One day it might be on.
15 March 2011 - 7:58pm
#8
This discussion has been going on for years overseas and those who are most concerned have mostly concluded that it is far better to create a permanent anchor than to destroy cliff top vegetation, create erosion problems and un-neccessary down tracks. The same drama has unfolded at Charleston. And, this issue was made part of the Mt. Aspiring National Park Plan for all the same reasons.
The big benefit is more climbing. Abseiling down the route in a quick and efficient manner means you get to spend a lot more time getting pumped.
The other bigtime bonus of a permanent fixed anchor
15 March 2011 - 8:25pm
#9
Yeah Charleston was definitely in mind, I'd heard that there was some oppostion to the anchors, but look at the results!! And they're only place where required ie. Racing in the Streets...
16 March 2011 - 6:14am
#10
If you are faffing around top roping it is not a big deal to rig up Pareora corner. I say leave it alone
16 March 2011 - 10:23am
#11
I have to agree with cragrat. Besides, I don't think that top block on Pareora Corner is even grounded. I'd much rather use the tree roots.
16 March 2011 - 4:01pm
#12
The solidity at MH isn't really the most fantastic once you start looking closely, beside the block (its a bit hard top tell really how large it is unless you dig) is not the only option to bolt.
19 March 2011 - 2:55pm
#13
So let me get this right.
Two votes for anchors and three against (I had a personal mail against) placing anchor opting instead for using two to three tree roots that 1) might NOT be actually be firmly 'grounded' and 2) could potentially break at any time and with there continued use will eventually contribute to that end.
Thats democracy for you...
19 March 2011 - 8:19pm
#14
So let me get this right.
Two votes for anchors and three against (I had a personal mail against) placing anchor opting instead for using two to three tree roots that 1) might NOT be actually be firmly 'grounded' and 2) could potentially break at any time and with there continued use will eventually contribute to that end.
Thats democracy for you...
Did you expect a different outcome?
As long as the tree roots are there, some people will insist on using them...
20 March 2011 - 9:11am
#15
I have been to a few areas where they wrap wire cable (10-12mm) around the trees to create permanent anchor points. It keeps the trees and roots from getting ring barked which does eventually kill the anchor....not a good look.
You could plant a new tree or two and a faff around for a few years until it is big enough.
Faffing, now there is great word. Nothing worse than going to the crag to end up Faffing.
21 March 2011 - 5:27pm
#16
I have quite happily whacked in anchors on various crags eg Battlements where they were needed but having climbed on those roots since the late 80's I don't feel it needs it (YET)
I also considered pullig the SARINZ ones out ... but that would have been a bit hypocritical
21 March 2011 - 7:56pm
#17
I have quite happily whacked in anchors on various crags eg Battlements where they were needed but having climbed on those roots since the late 80's I don't feel it needs it (YET)
Hey, I didn't realise that was you (or I forgot...
).
Thank you! I, for one, was very happy to see those anchors appear. 
27 March 2011 - 8:36am
#18
I have quite happily whacked in anchors on various crags eg Battlements where they were needed but having climbed on those roots since the late 80's I don't feel it needs it (YET)
I also considered pullig the SARINZ ones out ... but that would have been a bit hypocritical
So where do the ethics lie in respect to cutting roots... for arguments sake.
27 March 2011 - 9:01am
#19
I have quite happily whacked in anchors on various crags eg Battlements where they were needed but having climbed on those roots since the late 80's I don't feel it needs it (YET)
I also considered pullig the SARINZ ones out ... but that would have been a bit hypocritical
So where do the ethics lie in respect to cutting roots... for arguments sake.
Similar to cutting bolts...
I know it was right about the time you moved down south, but I've lead it too! That makes 2 .... right?
I distinctly remember building anchors for quite a number of the routes, that aren't close to the tree, being a major PITA. Not necessarily unsafe, just a lot pfaffing about. A couple of waratahs would make the job of building the anchor easier too, but bolts are a lot nicer than stakes of metal sticking out of the ground.
Have you talked with the guy (name excapes me right now) who set the bolts further along? He might be able to tell you more about whether or not your idea will fly locally.
And who stopped you on Wednesday? If he is a local climber, it might be worth talking with him again about it.