Offset superior to regular wires
17 May 2009 - 1:35am
Your mum said it was "hip to be a square" but it was not true. In fact being offset is much, much "hip"[per].
Offset wires have been proven to be more effective for traditional climbing than equivalently sized regular wired nuts. It was proven by me when I stopped climbing with my WC Rocks and swapped for a set of WC superlight rocks (the little single wire ones) and some of the new DMM Alloy Offsets. The proof is that I can place in all the spots I used to and a lot of the placements are better than with "regular" nuts.
Ballnutz also deserve a mention.
18 May 2009 - 1:48am
#3
yeah i know, those things that go on the end of a bolt when your tightening it up eh
18 May 2009 - 2:59pm
#4
so these are some kind of even newer school thing that keeps the hanger in place???
say if you had a hand crack, would the offsetness allow for the bolt to placed on ripples and constrictions and whatnot?
but seriously, im pretty game to try out some of those offsets, might flex the gear nerd side of the brain and get some of those o so light wc sl rocks
5 November 2009 - 11:18pm
#5
Hey Blair J, I use both.. own regular wall-nuts/rocks, also own alloy offsets and new(from old) brass offsets. I have found that where I can't find a sound seating for a conventional nut, more often than not, an offset will lock in nicely! If I had to choose one over the other then I would go the standard wall-nuts, but if I had the choice(which I do!) I would carry both. Have been climbing at Arapiles as of late and would probably place 5 or 6 regular nuts for every offset I place.
Ballnuts have their place as a specialised piece of gear, but they can be fiddly to place properly and the units themselves don't seem that hard wearing in my honest opinion.
6 November 2009 - 7:36am
#6
Usually I find having a mix of brands and models eg DMM Wallnuts and WC Rocks some RP's and some offsets helps cover most eventualities.
If you are somwhere with full pitches you will need more than one set anyway. When we were climbing lots at Araps for example we used to take triples up to about WC 5, Some will work better in different rock than others.
2 February 2011 - 6:10pm
#7
I've been climbing with HB offset wires (borrowed) a lot recently and they are awesome. I'm always reaching for them on my rack, they seem to fit crack constrictions better than regular wires. Does anyone know who sells HB offsets in NZ or what website's would be the best to buy them from?
2 February 2011 - 6:25pm
#8
Outsider Mountain Sports used to be the distributors - you could contact them - Alan and Linda are really helpful - sales@oms.co.nz , however I do not think HB no longer exists as a business
2 February 2011 - 9:15pm
#9
Ta cragrat emaile 'em.
2 February 2011 - 9:42pm
#10
Since DMM took over some HB stuff (so to speak) they have made the offset http://dmmclimbing.com/productsDetails.asp?pid=5&pid2=204 and OMS distribute DMM so....
3 February 2011 - 1:28pm
#11
Since DMM took over some HB stuff (so to speak) they have made the offset http://dmmclimbing.com/productsDetails.asp?pid=5&pid2=204 and OMS distribute DMM so....
yep, Mountain Designs had then in stock (well they did end of last year when I got some anyway)
I'm old school enough to still have WC SuperRocks - they were awesome (though people seconding seemed to think otherwise)
ewwwww...on both counts
what are nuts anyway???