NZAC Bolting Courses

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paddles
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NZAC is seeking participants for bolting workshops

Originally aimed at club members we would like these comprehensive bolting workshops to reach as many bolters as possible and have decided to open entries up to non-club members. Please register your interest, or spread the word to as many people/clubs as you think may be involved in establishing new routes. We need applicants to email us by Wednesday 1 November.

Attention new routers, bolting best practice workshop.

Background: There has been considerable discussion recently about bolting practices at new crags, the New Zealand Alpine Club is keen to see crags developed with high quality bolting techniques.

Two identical weekend courses will focus on all aspects of creating a new
route, from drilling and placement techniques to envisioning a quality new
route with good bolting ethics.

The goal is that by the end of the weekend you will have placed a vaiety of
bolts and created a new route. You will be an active advocate for top
quality new routing and will spread information and techniques around your climbing communities

The instructor: Paul Rogers has dedicated many years to creating and promoting great rock routes. He is passionate about passing on information and skills to help you do the same.

How to Apply: There is only space for 6 people on each weekend. We are
seeking people who have shown a longer term commitment to rock climbing an who will contribute actively to new routing.
Email chris@alpineclub.org.nz by Wednesday Nov 1

Cost: $100 per person and includes world class instruction and all bolting
equipment costs. This course is heavily subsidized by the alpine club.

Where and When: Whanganui Bay, Two identical weekend courses:
November 18/19 and 25/26
[/b]

It was like a bird of rarest-spun heaven metal or like silvery wine flowing in a spaceship, gravity all nonsense now.

sbaclimber
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Does this mean there will be no course in Chch? :cry:

hobo_climber
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or anywhere in the southisland for that matter? :cry:

Slab climbing in 2 easy steps.
1. lips against rock
2. suck...

paddles
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I'm not sure of the answer to that. I have advised Chris (the activities coordinator) and hopefully he'll have something up re SI courses soon. By the looks of the latest mag the SI courses are next year...

It was like a bird of rarest-spun heaven metal or like silvery wine flowing in a spaceship, gravity all nonsense now.

craigm
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any ideas what routes will be rebolted (i assume it's to rebolt old routes).
Hopefully small pocks is on the list.

Life is short, art is long, opportunity fleeting, experimenting dangerous, reasoning difficult

mnatti
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I just want to say that I am really happy that this is ACTUALLY happening. With all the grumbling and uncertainty about bolting on this site, I honestly hope that EVERYONE who has (or has had) any desire to be a new router tries to sign up for this. I hope the NZAC gets swamped and actually needs to think about an additional day! I don't honestly know if there are THAT many climbers out there with the burning desire to go out and develop..... but we certainly have the availible rock here.... so why not get out and make it better for yourselves and others?!?
Ok... perhaps a bit much, but I do want to say that I for one am in. Even if I never use the knowladge.... at least I'll have it in my back pocket.

Climb hard, fall soft

cragrat
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The only problem as I see it if you only go to the Bay you are limiting yourself to a certain style of bolt only - maybe Paul will take a day and go to Kawakawa or some other harder rock venue...

paddles
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Quote:
any ideas what routes will be rebolted (i assume it's to rebolt old routes).
Hopefully small pocks is on the list.

I have no idea which routes Paul intends to look at with the bolting course. If you have a list of routes which you think are deserving of attention, it might be worth emailing a list to chris@alpineclub.org.nz - he can pass it on to Paul...

Simon, you can mix up the technology a bit at the Bay - the North End rock is hard enough for tru-bolt style anchors. i'm not sure what Paul's plans are.

Any questions: fire them to chris@alpineclub.org.nz

It was like a bird of rarest-spun heaven metal or like silvery wine flowing in a spaceship, gravity all nonsense now.

paddles
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Here's the goss re south island courses (from Chris at NZAC):

There will be two South Island weekend bolting workshops in March 2007. See The Climber (summer issue) or NZAC section newsletters for more info. Info will be posted on the NZAC website too.

Paul is a flexible instructor, so will address individual bolting questions and requirements (i.e. soft rock vs hard rock).

It was like a bird of rarest-spun heaven metal or like silvery wine flowing in a spaceship, gravity all nonsense now.