New wide crack pro
3 August 2011 - 9:06pm
There's not a lot of offwidth cracks here, but I still thought this was neat looking - the Gipsy from Kong. Can't say I'd ever buy one, but still cool.
http://gripped.com/2011/08/sections/news/aug-2-2011-the-gipsy-tames-those-nasty-offwidth-cracks/
4 August 2011 - 1:28am
#2
That Kong does not even seem to have a spring on it, so in some ways it's like a Tricam torqued camming devive.
You have to look quick, but at at min 1:31 you can see the springs.
I am personally pretty skeptical. The idea has been around for ages, and I don't really see how Kong has managed to make a better version it (there have been previous versions made).
I particulary don't like the looks of the "teeth" on the top, seem somehow counter productive. Wouldn't it be better to have something that slides or cams up there?
4 August 2011 - 1:39am
#3
If it works they could be be really good, and light to carry. Let's wait until the reviews come out.
4 August 2011 - 11:36am
#4
In the first place, you can't really call that climb an offwidth. I don't see any radical armbars, chicken wings or hand/foot stacks. The guy is laybacking and using mostly face holds for goodness sake. It looks more like a route that would be bolted at a Wanaka crag (ha,ha,no serious).
The really tough bit looks like all of the one handed manipulations. I think if you were pumped out your mind...5 metres above your last piece...and your only protection was your truly your head and maybe your cojones...it might be hard to get your hand to do all that work.
First, unclip the device off the carrier unit on the harness. Then, unclip the biner from your harness, open the device against your leg and push the lock trigger. Finally, place the unit, release it and pray it doesn't flip sideways. In which case, repeat all of the steps above.
The next trouble might be re-adjusting the device, with one hand, after it has been set. In most off-width climbing, it is common place to move the piece up with you while climbing to reduce the amount of cams required.
Also, notice the cam is easier to place in a narrow crack as opposed the wider crack which it is meant to protect. Notice at about 1:10, the cam almost look like it could rotate off in the irreluglar feature. The problem looks like it might get worse as the device reaches the maximum range.
That said, they look real cool. It might just be a better "mousetrap".
4 August 2011 - 12:34pm
#5
Check out this website http://www.widefetish.com/pages/how_to.html
It will get you in the mood.
11 August 2011 - 11:24pm
#6
If it works they could be be really good, and light to carry. Let's wait until the reviews come out.
Someone over on rockclimbing.com pointed this out:
#5 Camalot 380g vs Kong #5 320g
#6 Camalot 557g vs Kong #6 485g
cover same ranges
tiny bit lighter but can you "walk" it above your head for longer offwidths!?
12 August 2011 - 12:12am
#7
Good luck trying to position that device up above your head. Please don't break your fingers while doing so.
I can't help but thinking about the importance of not forgetting the basic principles....
httphttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=024UcB1m7Do
In summary, shut TFU unless you can walk the walk.
19 September 2011 - 12:02pm
#8
Here you go Split Beaver video. The route is rated 10b. Looks pretty tough. That would probably be grade 26 in Wanaka and maybe V10 at Castle Hill. I would to see those new gadgets in action on this route.
19 September 2011 - 12:49pm
#9
I think the only crack here is the stuff being smoked.... 
19 September 2011 - 1:57pm
#11
I think boulderdash is referring to how bloody hard off-widths are to climb. I've done a couple of 5.10 off-widths in North America, almost spewed, thought I was gonna die etc. Were all way harder than any Wanaka 26s ;)
19 September 2011 - 2:46pm
#12
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/split-beaver/105951010
http://www3.telus.net/public/7394243/climbing/offwidths/episode1.html
http://27crags.com/crags/the-smoke-bluffs/routes/split-beaver
It's a subjective argument, it's a pity it's already been lowered to the level of who is better than who in the country.
Cool video Graham, the Kong looks light and simple, if it is priced much cheaper than Camalots then it could prove a worthwhile investment.
The only truly effective protection that I have ever got to work in offwidths was my head, whilst trying to climb the Mates Little Brother. Unfortunately my head was stuck facing inwards to the crack, so I couldn't see the next moves. End of story.
That Kong does not even seem to have a spring on it, so in some ways it's like a Tricam torqued camming devive.
Shutchoassup biarch njus climb ehbro ?