New Routes at Kawakawa Bay
1 April 2011 - 1:46pm
Hey, Some friends and I have put up about 30 new routes at Kawakawa bay this summer. Will be sending a list of the new climbs into freeclimb at the end of April. If you have done a new route that is not in the current guide or know of someone who has then if u could post all the info on the new route here I can include it in the update. Cheers :)
P.S if anyone's got free time mid week to climb and wants to get thier name in the guide too, Just write me a message or just turn up to the crag. If the weathers not horrible, i'll more than likely be there for the next 3 weeks. I'm living under the big overhang just past the big cave and little beach about 10 mins from the main campsite. Most of my projects at the mo will prob go from grade 24 - 26 so if your climbing reasonable hard then that would b a bonus. Chur!
3 April 2011 - 1:50pm
#2
I for one am looking foward to finding out who the inconsiderate asshole is who cleaned the route left of High Hopes and literally burried every hold of the first two pitches of High Hopes in crud. Absolutely ruined a days climbing for me and they will get some serious grief from me when I catch up to them.
4 April 2011 - 5:15pm
#4
Well I climbed High Hopes on 24/11/2010 and the massive Ledges were only identifiable by the piles of untouched debris on them. I apologise for the overstatement in my first comment, what I logged next day was "
Total nightmare due to some arrogant, inconsiderate asshole having cleaned a route immediately to the left and buried all the holds on the first pitch of high hopes in crap. Dogged the first two bolts while debating continuing and did so in the “high hopes” of it getting better further up. Wrong - had to literally dig out every hold apart from the last 2m!! Pitch 2, Also affected by next door, would normally have considered it dirty in places but in comparison to Pitch 1 virtually spotless!"
If you soloed it afterwards you did it after I was there, no way had anybody touched it. It wasnt "a little bit of loose lichen" it was handfulls of the stuff on every hold. If you thought it was OK it was because we removed the bulk of the crap for you. It was the most filthy pitch Ive ever climbed, including all the ones I've climbed to scope out before cleaning them!!
Having put up a few routes myself I appreciate the effort you put in, but I've never left an adjacent route in the condition you left High Hopes in. Given its a pretty popular crag and the route is a three star classic, leaving it the way you did, even if it was only a day is inexcusable. If you dont have the time and energy to clean up after yourself dont make a mess in the first place!
An apology from you would have gone long way, but after reading your comments above my opinion of you stands - but add self aggrandizing as well as the arrogant I left out before.
2 May 2011 - 8:24pm
#5
ha ha ha ha ha, Sissy.
4 April 2011 - 5:23pm
#6
Calm down boys. No need for fisticuffs. Some massive work was put in to establish some new routes and a climb got dirty that perhaps should have brushed down if it was that bad. Thanks for the cleaning job Paul, thanks for the new routes Monkey man. I look forward to climbing them over winter!
4 April 2011 - 7:55pm
#7
@monkeyman & P. Paul: Seriously, you two....seriously!? You are calling names and thumping chests over some collateral dirt!?
I would like to point you both to these two pages:
A) The forum rules & regs. I am sure you know why I am reminding you of them.
B) The latest retro-bolting thread. Please note how a discussion about something much more controversial than a route getting dirty did not devolve into name-calling and chest-thumping.
I am sure both of you are mature and articulate enough to continue this discussion in a way that doesn't sound like an interaction one might overhear at a primary school playground.
4 April 2011 - 9:12pm
#8
I refer you to Regans list:
http://mojozone.co.nz/forum/missing-draws-at-kewa
I'd just like to add "Cleaning a route and leaving the 3 star classic next to it buried in dirt. Arsehole"
5 April 2011 - 9:35am
#10
Well there you have it, maybe next time you will take the time out to clean up before you go for the glory of your first ascents if you want others to have a good opinion of you.
As for me, I rarely get a whole day away to climb - that one was the one day for the year. I drove 150km to get there, paddled over (which was nice by the way) only to find the climb that drew me to Kawa Kawa Bay in the first pace was covered in dirt and lichen. Never have been terribly diplomatic sorry, so you get what I think - you really don't want to hear what I had to say on the route.
So now you know what sort of impact you actions can have perhaps we can hope that in future you will consider others a little more and direct some of your effort into cleaning up a bit sooner.
5 April 2011 - 1:11pm
#11
It takes us usually 3 full days to clean and bolt a 50m route at Kawakawa after which I'm usually exhausted, in pain from from my harness, swearing, covered in dirt, lichen, my own blood and insects. We try to do it mid week for fear of dropping rocks, trees, small animals etc on people. Often we can't tell how long the job will take, so it's hard to estimate for clean up time. I've lost count of how often I thought a climb will take 1 day and it's taken 3 because what I thought was rock was dirt. Dan has put in a massive effort to develop that wall producing 2 3* climbs in the process. I have noticed he has been careful to clean up after himself as soon as was possible. This crag is under development so expect more lichen in the near future. We try our best but it's just the nature of the beast.
5 April 2011 - 5:17pm
#12
Hey if youy guys don't have one already, invest in a petrol powered leaf blower. Half an hour to an hour with one and we wouldn't have had this "communication". Not my idea, some of the Kewa crew put me onto it - best $250 I've spent, sved me many hours of cleaning up. Worth its weight in gold as far as getting rid of dirt and dust after cleaning a route - brush from bottom up, blow from top down - sweet. Awesome for shifting "collateral" dirt too.
11 April 2011 - 10:39pm
#13
Okay..... devloping is hard work, climbing is hard work. Group hug. As I was reading this, I was planning on mentioning the leaf blower thing..... it really is amazing. Read the old threads abot development at Mangaokewa and you'll see the biggest comments resemble "whaaaa, the rock has dust on it." It happens. Crag development is a long process. No need to get our panties in a bundle over a bit of moss, its not worth it.
So yeah, up at Kewa the crew and I bought an old, broken lead blower and fixed it up (less than $80 total, in parts and labor) and it quickly became almost as important as the drill as a developing tool. Perhaps at Kawakawa a blower is overkill unless you have a boat but having put up a good clip of routes on seriously dirty rock.... the blower is a god send. Baring that.... time and weather does a pretty good job too.
12 April 2011 - 10:35am
#14
Hey Matt, it wasn't a little bit of dust - it made the lower grade Kewa climbs that Ive climbed look totally pristine. I seriously doubt that you or any of the crew that I've met would have left someone elses route the way High Hopes was left.
My blower weighs 6.8kg. Thats about two 60m 9.2mm ropes to put it into perspective.
11 April 2011 - 11:22pm
#15
I would have no problem with being proven wrong 
but I really doubt a leaf blower would do the job a wire brush does on the lichen, the removal of which takes up the majority of the time when cleaning a route at Kawakawa. Some climbs require a spade, I doubt the leaf blower could do that job.
Anyway it’s sad this thread was hijacked. The 3 of us have put up over 50 pitches in 3 months, where’s the love :P?
12 April 2011 - 10:25am
#16
A blower certainly won't do the job of a wire brush and I did not claim that it did. It is however awesome for blowing the debris off the cliff once the brush has broken the lichen's/dirt's grip on the rock...
As for love you would get more from me if you put a bit of effort into cleaning up. Maybe I just got unlucky and turned up on the wrong day - all I can base my opinion on is what I experienced. Have a look at the Pakeho guide if you think I don't appreciate the hard work it takes to clean up a route.
All I can do is hope that now you guys know what I thought of you because of the state High Hopes was left in, someone else is saved the miserable experience I had, because maybe next time you develop a route next to an existing one, you have some consideration for others and leave it in the same state as you found it - or go for being a hero and leave it cleaner :)
12 April 2011 - 12:46pm
#17
Anyway it’s sad this thread was hijacked. The 3 of us have put up over 50 pitches in 3 months, where’s the love :P?
Where's the guidebook update?
12 April 2011 - 11:59am
#18
Well Pakeho Paul you will be immortalized at Kawakawa in the same way Jim Collins was at the Bay congrats.
12 April 2011 - 1:09pm
#19
"It's not what you do it's the way that you do it..."
12 April 2011 - 1:11pm
#20
Time to lock the thread I think, should have been done long ago. This thread is disappointing to say the least. No one person won the argument, I'm afraid you've just embarrased yourselves.
12 April 2011 - 2:48pm
#21
Fair enough, I was trying to be reasonable, but I lost my temper and for that I apologise. First experience of the Mojomoan I'll be wiser the next time.
12 April 2011 - 2:55pm
#22
Good question Andesite and my crass language wasn't directed towards you. I am working on photo topos for the guidebook now.
12 April 2011 - 4:08pm
#23
Good work to Dan on time, energy and passion into new routes. Looking forward to sampling them. And likewise to Paul at your place, which seems to get glowing reviews. Bummer the thread didn't stay constructive. The most important thing was heaps of good work in developing new routes for many to enjoy for a long time. Secondary in the grander scheme of things - even if quite annoying at the time - was the inconvenience to small number of people for a short time. Really, this was a case of very bad timing and a reminder of cleaning up as we go. K bay is both an increasingly popular destination and a crag under development, which requires a bit of understaning and tolerance from both sides.
12 April 2011 - 4:09pm
#24
You can click edit and clean it up if you want
12 April 2011 - 7:32pm
#25
You can click edit and clean it up if you want
If you are referring to whitecaps' post, there will be no need.
The post is gone.
(@andesite, sorry, your smiley-with-sunglasses reply went with it)
12 April 2011 - 8:25pm
#26
I tried to be constructive with the blower tip but it seems that has been taken badly too. No mention of the crag being under development is made in the guide currently on Freeclimb. I always thought it was a reasonable expectation to find climbs in a relatively enjoyable state once a guidebook has been published. Obviously I was wrong.
From all of the above comments it seems that leaving other routes dirty is quite acceptable, because developing is hard work!
My apologies, I am the arsehole for moaning and should be embarrased for hijacking this thread.
12 April 2011 - 9:27pm
#27
Padantic Pakeho 18
13 April 2011 - 11:19am
#28
Awesome! Was beggining to get rather depressed by all this.
Certainly sums up one of my many character flaws.
Hate to be even more pedantic but is the spelling deliberate?
It's even a low enough grade that I may even be able to drag myself up it some day. Do you reckon it will be clean??
Damm shame that Pakeho already has a "dirty deeds...."
13 April 2011 - 12:43pm
#29
:-) My initial thought was to leave it el natural to give people a "groundup experience".
My spelling is terrible.
Our dirty deeds did actually cost us a lot as I'm sure yours did.
The climb's on fairly good rock and is kind of naturally clean.
I was going to call it "Beached as Bro". At the moment it's the easiest climb on the 40-60m wall.
So Pedantic Pakeho 40m? 18
"Sling funky big chicken heads leading up to the crux upon which deft footwork may avoid beaching or trouser stains. Turn to your right and climb the slab on the arete placing gear blind in the thin crack. Committing moves ease towards the top. Traverse right under a large loose block round a corner to another arete from which an escape may be made."
The second had one hand in an underling the other was in a side pull when the pedestal he was standing on disappeared, resulting in a lot of nervous laughter.
13 April 2011 - 3:57pm
#30
Sounds completely in character. Maybe Ill bring my gear, give it a good clean and retro-bolt it so it actually gets a few repeats? :)
13 April 2011 - 4:05pm
#31
I'll get round to cleaning it and then it'll go in the guide, it has enough gear doesn't need bolting.
13 April 2011 - 8:39pm
#32
Oh, you made it sound rather scary and dangerous. Pakeho is a place by the way, "Pedantic Paul" although not as interesting might make more sense to future generations. Although as far as being called names goes my personal favourite, which took Hamish about a month to think of, is "Yorrick". Combined with my last name it really is a beauty. I've got a pretty thick skin as far as that sort of thing goes, comes from many years of practice! I often forget others don't, so my first posts may have been a bit harsh sorry. Still the state HH was in upset me way more than a bit of name calling ever will.
Anyway, certainly an interesting way of responding to criticism and naming climbs. Must give it a go sometime.
12 May 2011 - 5:21am
#33
I'm super stoked to get back and check out all the new routes that have gone up in Taupo and the King Country--Pakeho and Kawakawa must be totally different crags now! I'm especially stoked for the upper cave wall at Kawakawa. So is that blower out at Kewa still working? I've got some seriously dirt removal planned for some big face routes out at Mangaotaki...
15 May 2011 - 8:03pm
#34
I'm especially stoked for the upper cave wall at Kawakawa.
It's called the Odyssey Wall.
16 May 2011 - 10:20am
#35
Hey, Some friends and I have put up about 30 new routes at Kawakawa bay this summer. Will be sending a list of the new climbs into freeclimb at the end of April.
Any chance you could just post the list of climbs here?
Otherwise could someone PLEASE just move this piece of shite into smacktalk so I don't waste my time checking the updates.
16 May 2011 - 7:25pm
#36
Hi apologies it's taking longer than we planned, I am working on the new guide now. It takes a long time to do this stuff as I'm sure you'll appreciate when you see the final guide. I'm aiming for two weeks but have heaps besides this on as well, I'll just do my best.
This whole episode has completely put me and the other developers at Kawakawa off mojozone. I have asked cragrat to terminate my 7 years of membership to this site.
20 May 2011 - 7:06pm
#37
Hi apologies it's taking longer than we planned, I am working on the new guide now. It takes a long time to do this stuff as I'm sure you'll appreciate when you see the final guide. I'm aiming for two weeks but have heaps besides this on as well, I'll just do my best.
This whole episode has completely put me and the other developers at Kawakawa off mojozone. I have asked cragrat to terminate my 7 years of membership to this site.
Reluctantly done. However it is maybe not Mojozones fault per se but users...?
16 May 2011 - 9:47pm
#38
No worries, looking forward to checking the new climbs - hopefully next month sometime.
I'll keep an eye out for the new guide on freeclimb...
/thread
5 September 2011 - 7:10pm
#39
Looks awesome! Any info on the new routes yet?
12 November 2011 - 8:57pm
#40
Great work putting the new routes up. Only saw the ones at the Point and they are all very impressive. Anyone know what grade the Temple Pilot route is?
12 November 2011 - 9:40pm
#41
Odyssey wall and Odyssey route are rad. Free hanging 60m rap in, awesome climbing out.
The second pitch is an unlikely 19 out a flaring chimney/ cave with backwards, outwards facing radness. All three pitches (17,19,22) have great, varied climbing. Apparently some of the other routes need more traffic, but this one is a cracker. Well done fellas!
25 November 2011 - 6:06pm
#43
Mex Ams *** 20
24 November 2011 - 10:19pm
#45
Is there a Climber feature in the works for this?
21 December 2011 - 6:13am
#48
The new K Bay guidebook is brilliant. Great photos and detailed route info. Well worth it.
feel free to send them to us and we will make sure they go on climbnz
http://climbnz.org.nz/
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