Mount Manaia - Whangarei Heads

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mark99
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Joined: 5 Feb 2003
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I went on a road trip last weekend up north and while I was in Whangerarei Heads (Last time I was here was about 8 years ago), I noticed at the top of MT Manaia there could be some nice climbs.

I believe that it is owned by the local Iwi and was wondering if anybody would know if they allow climbing there or not? or if anybody has asked?

I did not spend enough time to find out....

craigm
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Joined: 25 Mar 2003
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there are a couple of routes there. The most famous called gorilla (i think) was televised a few years ago (5-10) with lovely Lana Cockroft being "guided" up by John Maine. I climbed it about 10 years ago, but climbing/access is now off limits i think. (usual iwi concerns etc)
There is potential for some good adventure climbing in that area but the rock is of mixed quality and would require mainly bolt protection.
There is a crag to the north near kaeo called taratara which is about 100m high of volcanic conglomerate (like the whangarei heads) of ok quality. I soloed a short (20m)grade 12 there about 2 years ago while visiting a friend who lives up that way.

Life is short, art is long, opportunity fleeting, experimenting dangerous, reasoning difficult

craigm
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I meant to say that it's just the true summit of Mt Manaia (the rock climb bit, gorilla) that is off limits. You can still walk up the track to the base of the last rocky bit (DOC track). the local iwi requested that the rock "head" remain untouched which is where gorilla goes.

Life is short, art is long, opportunity fleeting, experimenting dangerous, reasoning difficult

mark99
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Thanks for that... you don't know if anybody is in disucssions about gaining access ? Yeah I notice a few places around there as well as some boulders that could be intresting.

Next time I am I might spend more time hunting out these places...

mikal
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I know that a few bouldering 'forays' have been done around that area with a lot of good potential there.