Looking for climbing/bouldering opportunities around November / December / early January
7 November 2009 - 10:51am
Hi,
I'm planning to go to New Zealand hopefully some day in November until mid January. In that time, besides the usual tourist stuff ;) I'd also like to do some climbing and/or bouldering. Being from Germany, I don't have access to local guide books from here, so can anyone give me a hint on where to look for good places for sport-(no alpine)-climbing? Of course I'm also looking for climbing partners in that time,
so if anyone has spare time and wants to go .. let me know!
It's hard for me to say which grades I climb in NZ ... perception of grades sometimes varies, I think.
Here, I'd say I climb around 20/21 comfortably if there's enough bolts (for the head) and can do a few 24s and 25s if they match my kind of climbing .. that's not really my grade though.
... erm .. if I got the translation from European to Australian (are you using Australian grades??) grades
right. Boulderwise I am at around Fb 6a up to a few 7a and exactly one 7a+ ;)
I'd be happy about any comments and hints, thanks in advance!
Cheers
Christian
8 November 2009 - 6:52pm
#3
Hi Christian, If you're coming to the Central North Island, Try Freeclimb.co.nz
or for Auckland bouldering, http://thescooterreview.com/boulderguide/
Good free guides you can download...
13 November 2009 - 7:04pm
#4
www.freeclimb.co.nz has hole swag of guides.
Id say most of the bolts in NZ are spaced very well... more towards safe then bold.
14 November 2009 - 7:10am
#6
"Id say most of the bolts in NZ are spaced very well... more towards safe then bold"
You obviously havent come across any of Dave Fernerly's exponentially bolted routes... where the next bolt is only placed to stop you from hitting the ground! weeeeee
14 November 2009 - 3:01pm
#7
No I'm climbing in Aussie at the moment and they only place, carrots, when there is a bit of a crux.. doesnt matter about ground falls
Did a 15m 21.... a bolt, then ya run it out to top, beside it was a 16... first and only bolt.. @ 10m's up. This pretty much goes for any route under 23.
Most routes are either bolted to half way then nothing or really high first bolt, like really high, can't stick clip either coz of the carrots.....
We use australian grades and V grades for bouldering.
Most places have sport climbs Except some in Canterbury(near Christchurch). You can buy south island guides that have a bit of all area's but probably aren't super up to date. In the north you probably Need to Do a bit of research and buy the guides for the area you will visit the most.
Wharepapa area, Whanganui bay in North
Takaka/Paynesford, castle hill, Wanaka or Queenstown in south. Milford is a great spot but not much sport climbing but it is well worth a scramble in the hills, as it is so beautiful.