Lets bolt the Mt Eden quarry
29 January 2006 - 11:36pm
Hi
After a few trips to the Auckland quarry this year I can't help but wonder why it would not be a good idea to bolt some of the established routes? Big shiny bolts that that you can hang a truck on (or at least a mini) would brighten the place up no end. I have never understood why we can't have trad and sport on the same climb. I have seen certain climbers down the quarry, who have the routes so perfected, that are able to prehang the right sized nuts on their draws for each placement so they might as well be sport climbing. It is not like a few bolts (the more the better) would stop anyone from using trad gear if they wanted to anyway. Bolts may even reduce the waiting time for climbs as less people would need to set up top ropes.
Anyone want to donate money for a bolting fund? I know where I can get a drill :twisted: .
30 January 2006 - 8:48pm
#2
We should also bolt on some big pusher slopers and pockets. There needs to be more slopers and pockets at the quarry.
Also coloring the holds differently on each climb would be useful too because I get lost on the routes :cry:
30 January 2006 - 9:27pm
#4
What about red for left hand, orange for left foot, green for right hand and blue for right foot. Makes things nice and simple.
30 January 2006 - 9:55pm
#5
What about red for left hand, orange for left foot, green for right hand and blue for right foot. Makes things nice and simple.
No, see even that is far too complicated. And also I just can't remember.
I propose that on each hold you just have:
RH = Right Hand
LH = Left Hand
And all the colours for holds would be the same but different on each climb. eg Gothic Groove would/should have all black holds.
31 January 2006 - 11:18pm
#6
What about something for the colour-blind and/or illiterate amongst us...:
Square= left
Hex= right ?
1 February 2006 - 10:11am
#7
good good good then we could pull all the bolts around nz and carve cracks next to the old bolt placements.... dont laugh its been done! by brit climbers in spain who imported there warped logic to spain and put up routes without bolts but carved perfect 3 rock placements (apparently bomber put really really hard to see!) which incensed the locals... now wouldnt that be an interesting twist :roll:
1 February 2006 - 11:28am
#8
by brit climbers in spain who imported there warped logic to spain and put up routes without bolts but carved perfect 3 rock placements (apparently bomber put really really hard to see!)
Interesting story...
Sounds you might be talking about ENPs though? (correct me if I'm wrong Ed). These are glue-in inserts (invented by the Brits) that you place into a large diametre drill hole (flush with the rock surface). The inserts are shaped to accept Rocks, RPs etc of particlar sizes.
Kind of a good idea in terms of low visual pollution. But the reality is they are bloody hard to see (speaking from experience), and who wants to buy 10 Rocks of the same size?
They are common at some crags in Spain.
See:
http://www.compasswest.co.uk/spanishclimbing/ENP/How_it_works/how_it_works.html
"The ENP - The ENP was a protection system, developed by Rowland Edwards, which attempted to create traditional-style routes but with removable protection on the blanker sections. It was developed for routes on Puig Campana and later used in the Echo Valley and on the Toix Sea Cliffs. Recently Rowland and his son Mark have decided to replace many of the ENPs with conventional bolts, however there are still a few routes that use them. The ENP consists of a steel tube with a plastic washer and stainless steel spring behind it. A normal wired nut (Wild Country Rock 3) is key-holed into the tube and can removed the same way. When placed properly the ENP will give a solid runner but it should not be treated as a bolt."
From: rockfax.com/areas/costa-blanca/climbing-info.html
1 February 2006 - 5:39pm
#9
Why pusyfoot around. Why not drill some 1 metre holds all over the quarry, insert sticks of dynamite, connect the lot together and blow the whole cliff up at once. Then we would have a brand new cliff with no ethical history to worry about which we could then bolt from top to bottom and side to side. It would get rid of the polished holds as well.
1 February 2006 - 6:57pm
#10
Why pusyfoot around. Why not drill some 1 metre holds all over the quarry, insert sticks of dynamite, connect the lot together and blow the whole cliff up at once. Then we would have a brand new cliff with no ethical history to worry about which we could then bolt from top to bottom and side to side. It would get rid of the polished holds as well.
:lol: oh, the irony
(for those who don't get it, it is a 'quarry') :wink:
1 February 2006 - 7:01pm
#11
Why pusyfoot around. Why not drill some 1 metre holds all over the quarry, insert sticks of dynamite, connect the lot together and blow the whole cliff up at once. Then we would have a brand new cliff with no ethical history to worry about which we could then bolt from top to bottom and side to side. It would get rid of the polished holds as well.
...and at the same time create a boulder field...I'll chip in for the explosives :lol: :lol: :lol:
1 February 2006 - 8:31pm
#12
Why not just cover the entire cliff with bendcrete!? Will mean better friction... and can embed T-nuts into it too!
But damn... i would miss that polished bit of rock...
2 February 2006 - 9:32am
#14
I'll chip in for the explosives :lol: :lol: :lol:
Over stayer..... More like terrorist.
Rather than squares and circles or whatever why not put a little picture of a hand or foot with a little R or L to indicate R foot or L hand, etc.
You're all over thinking this. How about putting the left hand holds on the left and the right hand holds on the right? Or if you want to go mission impossible styles, the left holds on the right and the right holds on the left. You get a better view this way.
2 February 2006 - 11:05am
#15
You are missing the point of blowing it up. This would provide new rock right in the heart of Jaffa land so those people who live there would be able to go on ego trips putting up new routes without having to put in much/any effort, and certainly not having to venture farther south.
After all, isn't that what climbing is about; an ego massage?
2 February 2006 - 4:42pm
#16
yep your dead right martyn.. its not how hard you climb its how goood you look doing it! gotta go get my nails done.....
14 August 2006 - 10:12am
#18
http://www.mojozone.co.nz/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1353&start=0&postdays=0&...
It would appear that Some people dislike the quarry in it's present state
"As to the quarry well sorry for upsetting anyone but none of those routes can really go in a top ten of the north island (maybe the worst 10 of the north island!) I know there are people who love that place but I am sure there is a cure for that kind of sickness."
As Dave P wrote.
It would appear that bolting the Quarry, maybe drilling out some pockets or chipping a few bigger ledges would bring more people down and someone could start charging a nominal fee for the effort involved in bringing it to the masses...
Someone could bring down a coffee cart, a stereo/p.a. system...
if you were serious you wouldnt have posted this in smacktalk..... :roll:
Life is short, art is long, opportunity fleeting, experimenting dangerous, reasoning difficult