It is good trad...because it is bolted
8 September 2011 - 1:51pm
This is a really good video of a climber sending an established line that is bolted on natural protection.
I contend that it is a good trad line because it is bolted. Because it is bolted, it stays clean. If the route were just a trad route. It would rarely see ascents because it would be too dirty.
Clearly, the trad climber rehearsed the moves and rehearsed the protection but it shows what is possible. It is really a new style of climbing to find various bolted lines that are able to be done on natural protection.
Let's hope this concept does not bring with it climbers with the arrogance to the chop the bolts off the routes once they have been done using natural protection.
8 September 2011 - 7:05pm
#2
But can you believe people solo that grade or harder eg Dave MacLeod 8c ?
8 September 2011 - 3:28pm
#3
Cams in ignimbrite pockets, anyone? Heh.
8 September 2011 - 5:26pm
#4
NICE!
8 September 2011 - 11:01pm
#5
there are some even more impressive trad hard routes ... check out dave mcleods route on longhope about 300m and crux pitch at the top 32 ish all trad
or alex hubers routes in the dolomites very hard and dangerous as well, and some of the stuff on el cap is pretty mind blowing
its a great video to watch ... beautiful cliff and perfect rock, superb climber
but i reckon whether it was bolted or not the rock at Ceuse is so good that it would be clean enough to climb with or without bolts, its one of the worlds best crags for sure
9 September 2011 - 6:22am
#6
Let's hope this concept does not bring with it climbers with the arrogance to the chop the bolts off the routes once they have been done using natural protection.
That has been the practice in the past (UK in particular and the USA)
9 September 2011 - 11:23am
#7
Noticed a lot of comments on various American and UK forums like "I wonder if he will chop the bolts now?". Such lame old school tunnel vision thinking.
Arnaud Petit is no young buck but this route and his attitude is pure new school climbing. He did it because he wanted to, not to make any statement or to piss people off. Where you climb for your own enjoyment and personal challenge in whatever style you choose. The only requirements is you are honest about your methods when describing your ascent, and it doesn't affect anyone else doing something in the way they choose.
Here's a illustration of two different styles but both new school thinking from James Kassay's recent ascent of "The Wheel of Life".
"Call me stubborn, crazy or out right stupid if you must but climbing the full length of the cave wasn’t just a matter of getting from one end to the other the easiest possible way. Ethan (Pringle) was confused as to why I didn’t want to use the “easier beta” of putting on knee pads and milking the knee bar rests that are otherwise impossible to use…Ultimately I set myself a personal goal and that was the way I was going to do it" - James Kassay
"I knew James had been working on WOL for a few years and still had motivation to do it, but it seemed that he wanted to do it on his own terms, with a method he’d set for himself, even if it took him a little more time to do it that way. At first I was confused that he wouldn’t want to use easier beta, but after a while, I accepted it. Or I just no longer cared… one of the two. - I think the less you worry about what others are doing or what they think of your methods, and just climb for yourself and your own enjoyment, the better. Just get out there and have fun, dag-namit.." - Ethan Pringle
9 September 2011 - 5:26pm
#8
There was a bit of cam in pocket action at the Bay once – Paprika Plains which is just below the new road and would be a great easy grade crag if bolted, was developed with cams & tri cams in pockets.
22 September 2011 - 11:18am
#9
Here's the interview with Arnaud about the route.
"Did you ever consider removing the bolts, perhaps before or after the ascent?
No, I never considered this as Black Bean is a great sport route, established by Bruno Clément, really world-class and a true classic. Ceüse is a sport crag, the rock is not really suited to gear placements so there is no reason to remove the bolts. Even had I worked the route not using the bolts but instead by using a static fixed from above, I would not have had this idea. I am 40 now and I don't want to teach others how the things should be through this types of actions, even if I understand people removing bolts in some crack areas. As I see it, I am very very happy that we can climb this route playing two different games, without controversies."
http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=38580
We were talking down at the wall about this video, can't believe he trad an 8b route!