Home climbing wall
12 August 2009 - 3:41pm
So after a painful lack of climbing due to winter and a newborn that has more energy than an energizer bunny on speed, I’m building a small home wall in my carport. Anyone got any tips or advice from experience?
I don’t have a lot of room so the plan is to build a small intense wall to build climbing strength. The plan is to build a 3m 35 degree wall up to a flat roof section. I’m building out of 20mm h3 ply. Standard 2.4x1.2m
I have four sheets of ply so far but only enough pronged M10 nuts and 2x4 for two full sheets. Therefor my current plan is to put up one sheet for the wall and one for the roof. I plan to then expand it side ways across the carport as time and finances permit.
Any suggestions welcome
Jonny
12 August 2009 - 7:48pm
#3
sideways would be better IMHO - you'll get more use out of the surface area.
as for holds, you can go down two paths:
- fully modular set up, moving holds all the time; or
- cellar board set up, where the holds go on and then they stay forever.
personal preference really. i like the latter approach because it allows you to build on your route setting efforts (each new problem adds to the pool of routines with which to train) and it allows you to see how you're progressing. it becomes your local crag. if you need more variety, you just add new holds
12 August 2009 - 11:03pm
#4
I don't want to put a downer on your plan, but when I built a wall in a carport of a previous flat I hardly used it. Cold as in winter, mozzies, dark, etc - you are free to scorn my lack of motivation in the face of these obstacles :-)
45 degrees is pretty steep. How often do you really climb on 45 degrees in NZ (or overseas for that matter)? And when you go down the climbing wall, how much time do you spend bouldering on the 45?
I'd suggest making it less steep, I know that this will reduce the 'length' of the wall in that plane. But unless you're strong already you'll only use jugs on a 45, and that won't help you when it comes to climbing outside. I would think you'd get better usable strength gains from lower angle and smaller holds (but don't have any evidential basis for this).
If you get keen you can make the angle adjustable. I did this in said carport wall - but never ended up adjusting it. Maybe if I'd used it more :-)
Other, and maybe best, option is to use the width to make two sections of different angles.
My 2c.
13 August 2009 - 1:23am
#5
I lived at the whareora palace (derek/gomez's old place) for awhile with the wall that they built. It was 37deg from horizontal. I'm weak as f**k but I still got heaps of use out of it, and it wasn't only jugs. I reckon 45deg would be sweet as.
Skip the horizontal section (if you have room). It’d be better to angle the main wall down a bit, say to 40 or 45 degrees, and have it go all the way to the roof. It’ll make problem setting easier, and you’ll get better value out of your holds (horizontals always end up covered in jugs, which are lame and they also cost a lot).
Also, make holds out of wood, get a bunch of offcuts and shape them as required. Screw them on (saves on tee-nuts and bolts).