Hanging Rock Access
29 November 2006 - 8:16pm
I was just wondering if anyone had an update on Hanging Rock - do you still need to access via the river? Has anyone talked to the landowner?
Cheers
29 November 2006 - 9:05pm
#2
Cool that would be great. Haven't used that access since the early days - its good to know its allowed.
30 November 2006 - 9:21am
#3
Has anything changed with Beautiful Valley? It is a shame the best crag there is out of action.
I heard some ChCh lads (and lasses?) are looking at cleaning up Raincliff - re-bolting and also with chainsaws.
30 November 2006 - 10:00am
#4
Re-bolting with chainsaws!! Yikes, hope they've got some skils.
30 November 2006 - 10:08pm
#5
Its not chipping Gov - Honest... :twisted:
7 January 2007 - 3:54pm
#6
Went into hanging rock yesterday, using the standard access via Goulds Rd - didn't see anyone to ask if this was ok, but the book to sign is still there and judging by the entries in the book this access is presently being used regularly. Anyone know if this access is an issue at all?
The farm seems a little neglected - lots of daggy, unshorn sheep wandering around and nettles invading everywhere.
However the crag is definitely not being neglected - seems someone is popping lotsa shiny stainless in all over the place to replace hangerless coach bolts - great job, thanks especially for focussing on the consumer routes at the easier end of the spectrum - all the routes we climbed had hangers (except second bolt on Speed King - new bolt, but no hanger - work in progress?) - we climbed Speed King 15, Rythm Divine 16, Mad Gesture 18 (verry nice), Ant Man Black 17 (wow, hard start for a 17), Desire 18 (great starting sequence) - looks like many of the other starred routes also had new hangers installed
Here's some updates for your guidebook:
Black Wall, Lichen Bandit 19 - now has 4 bolts, so no more groundfall potential I guess (didn't actually climb this tho, next time)
Mad Gesture Wall, Rythm Divine 16, now has 3 bolts and you can start from the ground thanks to someones gardening effort - makes the route even better by squeezing in a highball start (1st bolt is a way off the deck - maybe one more to protect the moves onto the ledge?)
3 February 2007 - 8:19pm
#7
I talked to the farm manager today and he is happy for people to use the standard access route. If you see him just check to make sure this is ok as he may ask you to use the access route further around the road, something to do with stock movement etc. If you don't seem him just rock on up and sign in.
Apparently there will be a new lease holder taking over sometime soon, but he doesn't think that will effect the access.
I'm hoping to get a hanger put onto Speed King sometime this week and the fourth bolt on lichen bandit needs some loktite and a cresent. I will address this as well.
5 February 2007 - 6:27pm
#8
good on ya
6 February 2007 - 9:58pm
#9
Yeah Weasel, thanks for the access update and bolt upgrades - appreciated.
6 February 2007 - 10:07pm
#10
Cheers.
I can't take credit for all the bolts, just a couple. Aoraki Polytech puts them up as part of their second year outdoor rec course. Dave Brash comes up and does a session with us. As a local though and still a student at the Poly I want to make sure they done properly, so any gripes give me a yell I'll see what I can do.
Next...Beautiful Valley.
6 February 2007 - 10:18pm
#11
Yes - the access issues there NEED to be cleared up since it is the BEST crag in South Canterbury. I don't know if you have talked to Tony Rooney at all but he used to be the active climber along with Ian Binnie and may just know a little about recent history with the farmer.
Really this should also be communicated with Kristin Foley the NZAC Access dude. We can get any signs printed with whatever the Farmer requires about access etc.
1 April 2007 - 12:33am
#12
Pity I didn't read this (again) before heading down there today.
Speed King is still missing the second bolt hanger. None have spring washers on which they need and none have loctite either.
There are several staple anchors at the tops of several climbs. If you use staples which are not replaceable you should put a twist shackle on each anchor. This does three things - makes it easier to pull the rope, allows replacement of a worn bit and stops rope wear in the corner where the rock and staple meet.
This is a common system in Australia. the twist shackles are usually stainless steel.
2 April 2007 - 9:35am
#13
2 April 2007 - 9:37am
#14
where do you get those twist shackles?
2 April 2007 - 10:19am
#15
Engineering/Marine places...
2 April 2007 - 11:02am
#16
Sailing equipment shops have em i think.
6 May 2007 - 2:13pm
#17
Lastest update is that Hanging Rock will be closed for the next fortnight, possibly a month. Apparently there has been some complaints about the condition of the farm (the local winery not climbers) and so he's decided to close it until he can improve conditions there. Hopefully this won't be for too long.
As for Speed Kings hanger, I have it in possession, just haven't had time to get out there.
6 May 2007 - 3:08pm
#18
A Hanger was put on it yesterday by my partner. Use the hanger you have elsewhere ...
6 May 2007 - 7:42pm
#19
Sure thing.
7 May 2007 - 1:21pm
#20
Lastest update is that Hanging Rock will be closed for the next fortnight, possibly a month. Apparently there has been some complaints about the condition of the farm (the local winery not climbers) and so he's decided to close it until he can improve conditions there. Hopefully this won't be for too long.
I think really he is not invested in the place any longer. Certainly the sheep all need shearing the place is getting run down ....
6 August 2007 - 9:20pm
#21
Any progress on this? Did the cag reopen after the month? Is it now lambing anyway? Can anyone remember when lambing restriction swhere in place there? Are all the sheep dead and so no lambs anyway? Any help would be appreciated.
7 August 2007 - 11:55am
#22
I second that quest for knowledge...
Havent been to hanging rock for a couple years but am keen to head up there in a week or two.
Whats happening?
23 April 2008 - 10:33am
#23
Sorry this ain't to do with access :(
Seems over easter someones placed some lovely glue-ins on Protoplasm, the access rope has come down, so looks like a winter ascent is in order for some lucky gorilla...
As far a access goes there's been no problems I'm aware of, except for the eventual replacement of the access to Raincliff Rd on the 45km corner, a kilometre south from Raincliff Crag itself.
I don't know when this is going to happen but I'll get touch with the farmer soon.
23 April 2008 - 2:36pm
#24
photos of one such (pre) winter ascent @ flickr.com/photos/chunkyfarmer
27 January 2011 - 8:47pm
#25
Is there still any need to take keyhole hangers to Hanging Rock or are the naked bolts a thing of the past now?
Can anyone contribute to this thread in regards to the current access arrangements with the land owner?
Cheers
27 January 2011 - 10:49pm
#26
You would never get a keyhole bracket on the bolts there - like castle hill they were driven in galvanised 12mm fence bolts which had a huge head. You used wires and slid the nut up to secure it.They only came off on overhanging routes.
14 October 2011 - 11:46am
#27
Update on Access on Hanging Rock.
Please make sure you park away from the gate @ the car park. The truckies coming through the fence find it quite hard to navigate through climbers cars parked up agasint the gate.
Crag is still dead most weekends but the climbs are still cleanish.
Bolting wise... still the same ole... take some wires.
I'll try and find out. We have been accessing the crag from the other end (off the road heading to raincliff). Last I heard this was still ok, although hadn't heard anything further regarding traditional way in.