El Capitan
20 January 2008 - 4:18pm
Hi,
I was wanting some info from anyone who may have climbed El Capitan or climbed in Yosemite. I am thinking about setting myself the goal of climbing El Capitan next year and although I've done a fair bit of research am finding it hard to ascertain exactly how difficult it is.
What grade would someone have to be lead climbing before attempting to climb one of the easier routes up El Cap?
My main concern would probably be lack of experience in the area. Do they have guides and guided climbs available?
Cheers.
28 January 2009 - 12:32pm
#2
I think if you are a good aid climber then El Cap is certianly do-able. But Aid Climbing and big wall is something not easy to be learnt in ole NZ and requires a good season on a few walls before even trying some long routes like that (Its hard to imagine a 1000m face!)
Isn't the Snake Dike 5.8? 18-19?... theres always the Cables route on the Half Dome :lol:
28 January 2009 - 4:32pm
#3
Hi JBT,
That's a cool goal you've set yourself.
Try the forum on this website - you might have more luck finding information there...
The forum link is on the upper right of the home page. All the best!
Francesca
28 January 2009 - 6:13pm
#4
Yosemite is rad. I had my first trip there in October. Two weeks of bliss.
I had no idea about just how much of a climbing fantasy land Yosemite is, even if you don't climb the captain It seems that many people don't climb El Cap on there first trip - but are inspired to go back for it.
The SuperTopo guides are good. Consider the free climbing one for Yosemite. And for Tuolomne too if you have transport (its a couple hours of driving each way) and fancy runout slabs. The older free climbing guides complement the SuperTopo guides very well.
My one disappointment is that a change of schedules stopped me doing the East Buttress of El Cap. This is the route you do so you can say you did a route on El Cap! Something like a dozen mainly moderate ( 5.9 or less) pitches with a short 5.10 crux.
If you are comfortable leading 18 on gear all day, then you'll be in moderate multipitch heaven. You might consider doing that and trying to get in on some aiding action while you're there. There are few bolted sport climbs, but the bouldering is sensational.
29 January 2009 - 11:43am
#5
I did Snake Dike last year and highly recommend it. There are 70 foot runouts between bolts which get the heart beating fast. Don't fall :)
31 January 2009 - 8:50pm
#6
its not that hard though - certainly no where near 18-19...
1 February 2009 - 9:03am
#7
its not that hard though - certainly no where near 18-19...
Hell no, 16 slab....if that....
2 February 2009 - 12:21pm
#8
It's graded 5.7R so definitely not technically challenging, just mentally. You can nohands rest on most of the moves it is that slabby... if you dare, it is a bit polished from thousands of ascents each year.
Yosemite Mountain School does climbing excursions, but probably for the more inexperienced ...
If you have longer then a couple weeks to climb in yosemite, just go there, and get on some routes either in the valley or tuolomne. the granite is amazing. i think its supertopo that has info on the climbing there.