Dasler Pinnacles - New Route - White Strike
20 September 2011 - 7:17am
http://www.paulherseywrites.com/
'What We Did With Our Weekend' or 'A New Route In The Hopkins Valley'
I love it when a plan comes together.
The forecast for the weekend was average. Perhaps the narrow window of fine weather could stay open, but in all likelihood typical Spring instabilities would shut it down. Jamie Vinton- Boot and I decided to risk it.
The Hopkins Valley is one of my favourite places in the world. In the last eight years I've been there 70-80 times, maybe more, but I never tire of its stunning mountains and climbing possibilities. Over the years I've formed a bond with each peak. And it seems each new trip offers up more perspective.
Jamie and I planned to have a look at something I'd had my eye on for a while. But the route in question would be committing and, given the dodgy looking weather, I kept a Plan B up my sleeve.
Low cloud and a gusty westerly greeted us. Soon after we reached Dasler Bivouac it started snowing. There wasn't much to do other than climb into our sleeping bags and wait for tomorrow.
The next morning it seemed the weather couldn't make up its mind. We decided not to follow suit so, at first light, started clambering through the beech forest, traversing round into the valley between Dasler Pinnacles and Glen Mary. We were going to climb somthing!
Plan B came into view - a thin white streak running straight up the western flank of Dasler Pinnacles. Never more than two metres wide, and mostly less than a metre, it was as clean a line as I'd seen for some time. Two, maybe three pitches long, it looked amazing. Jamie and I geared up.
Somehow, two pitches grew into five. The ice kept running. We kept climbing. The ground dropped away, pitch by narrow pitch.
At the crux third pitch, the ice was no more than 20 centimetres wide. I struggled to fit myself within the narrow band of rock, thrutching with one tool above the other and crampons wedged in tight. Protection was sparse and, not for the first time, I marvelled at Jamie's leading ability. This was a beaut line!
'White Strike' - 250 metres WI3 M4
24 September 2011 - 4:11pm
#2
Nice! This is a fantastic pic:
25 September 2011 - 1:55pm
#3
Yeah, that looks very cool! nice job guys. I've got a bit of a thing for thin white lines and cracks/corners...
25 September 2011 - 3:26pm
#4
Hairball. Can't get lost just puckered. Looks rad. Good skills.
26 September 2011 - 12:25am
#5
great picture and route, nice work.. cant help but look at that slab of rock with itty wee edges all over it , great summer route to go up there perhaps?
White Strike, First Ascent, Dasler Pinnacles, Hopkins Valley
On Saturday Paul Hersey and I put up White Strike, a five pitch ice and mixed route on the northwest face of the Dasler Pinnacles in the Hopkins Valley. The route ascended the striking line on the southern (lower right) tier of the face and went at grade WI3, M4, with sparse protection (all rock gear). The condition of the ice was thin and much of the rock was rotten or blank, hence the lack of protection. This of course makes White Strike an instant classic and another route worthy of further ascents.
On our way to Dasler Biv in the Hopkins Valley
The view of the northwest face that greeted us as we emerged from the bush. White Strike is the thin line visible on the lower right tier of the face and left of the iced up gully.
Paul seconding on the 3rd and crux pitch which required a rather tight shuffle between the rock buttress on his left and blank slab on his right
The ascent line of White Strike
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