Bouldering in Central
26 November 2008 - 10:05pm
What's the story? I was driving the route from Alexandra to Roxburgh the other day en route to Dunners, kicking myself for not going via Duntroon, when I looked out the window to see what seemed to be endless fields of schist boulders. Now, I'd just come back from climbing in Queenstown (great work with those little city crags, by the way!), so I had an idea of what kind of choss tolerance climbers in Central are used to, and the rock was generally a slightly better quality. I had just assumed that it'd be dirty rubbish rock, but then I drug the shoes out of the car and had a look. Holy shit! It kinda reminded me of Hampi, where the vast majority of the rock is blank, but the sheer vast expanse of rock covered terrain meant that finding five star problems in every region would be inevitable. Anyone know of the climbing history of the place, or of access considerations? Why is it off the map?
26 November 2008 - 11:09pm
#2
choss?
26 November 2008 - 11:13pm
#3
yep a far bit is choss, but as you say theres heaps and there are some goodies if you go looking, methinks the bestest is down closer to the river where its been riverworn, like rocky point
take the drive through the pig route and youll see heeeaps more
27 November 2008 - 7:50am
#4
There's certainly gold in them thar hills, but a horse might be a more useful climbing accessory than a pad.
Take the drive through the pig route for sure, do it in high summer for full value. Terrible time to try and go climbing though. Go and get a jug at the pub in Oturehua instead.
27 November 2008 - 8:24am
#5
The telling point here is perhaps that you "drug your shoes out of the car"?
28 November 2008 - 8:20am
#6
There at least one access problem (on the right heading north). A friend asked the landowner and was denied, which is a pity because the rock looked relatively solid there.
Some good, alot chossy and good climbing only an hour away in Wanaka or Queenstown.
I think people play once on the way through rather than being a destination.
Looks like people have rapped the cliffs by the river a little north for a nosy in the past. Without gear I couldn't get a good look.
28 November 2008 - 5:47pm
#7
As others have stated, theres lots of choss out there but still worth a hunt around if you happen to be driving trough. There is a small amount of good rock on some of the cuttings on the rail trail, particularly the Poolburn section. You would probably want to cycle in because it is a reasonable walk. Just to manage expectations, go to ride the rail trail and throw in a pair of rock shoes, not the other way around! The Sutton Salt Lake is DoC estate (on the Dunedin side of, and close to, Middlemarch) and has heaps of boulders, not terribly big, but very god access. There are some large torres around Sutton and both across towards Macraes and down into the Taieri Gorge but getting access to check them out is the issue.
2 December 2008 - 8:23am
#8
pure gold, gomez.
you should check out roadside overhang at bendigo (en route to the Lindis) plus the stuff near the creek thereabouts.
2 December 2008 - 1:32pm
#9
Newby on here but I've been doing a bit of bouldering at Bendigo (aka Rocky Point) lately, living in mighty Cromwell its only 10min away for me to cruise out there after work, all good 8) just a minute or 2 past the boat ramp crag.
Been cleaning up the rock a bit (and left a broom there for anyone else who wants to do the same), it was pretty dirty at first but getting better now, I reckon theres heaps more potential than what I've done so far too.
Saw some chalkmarks on the overhang beside the road, to find most of the problems you just walk in through the trees to the left of the overhang. Quite interesting rock in there.
2 December 2008 - 3:24pm
#10
jon sedon , greg johnston and others have been into the rocky point bouldering for a few years now, on and off, there are a heap of completed problems ..
2 December 2008 - 3:29pm
#11
Sweet, anyone ever make a guide of what problems are what? I've just been making things up for myself as I go along...
4 December 2008 - 5:46pm
#12
Very cool. Oh, just heard that this guy Troy has been doing a fair bit of bouldering development down around Alexandra--anyone got his details? Would like to find out where at. ;-)
19 December 2008 - 5:40pm
#13
A couple of weeks ago a mate and I climbed between The Shakey Bridge(foot and MTB) and the one lane Little Valley bridge beside the Manuherikia in Alexandra. A few top anchors and some bolted routes. A bee/wasp nest was the only blight on a good day out. Snooping around the area a little more based on info, found some more routes near Bannockburn and with a lil more detective work netted a view of a few rigging ropes in the Cromwell gorge closer to cromwell than Clyde. Anyone have any more lowdown on the go with Bannockburn and Cromwell gorge? Or is it all a local secret? Cheers
19 December 2008 - 6:46pm
#14
russell braddock, bryan moore and kat west (all wanaka locals) and a few others have been putting up a few routes on the obvious steep crag where the gorge narrows. the ropes may be theres
there is a mountain of rock to be had...
21 December 2008 - 11:07pm
#15
Routes around Bannockburn? Do tell... :D (I'm Cromwell based so pretty close)
17 January 2009 - 6:48am
#16
When you cross the bridge to Bannockburn from Cromwell,look to the left on the Bannockburn side and the first prominent outcrop is it! Think there is a place to park on the crest of the road.
There are a few galv chainlink top anchors. It looks steep and hard(well for me).
There is the remains of an old stone dwelling at the bottm of the cliff, so development may have been curtailed to protect this.
message me if you are keen to hook up for a look one night after work
cheers
28 January 2009 - 10:13am
#17
Had a quick look around and its gotta be worth a climb sometime - saw 6 anchors at the top, as far as I could see 2 of the climbs are bolted the others I assume are just top-roped. Climbs around 15m long, rock could probably do with a clean but looks ok.
I'm pretty busy this week but might have time to go have a crack at it next week if you're keen?
2 February 2009 - 10:15pm
#18
Hi Gravelben
Busy week for me this week, Hows the week after 8th feb look for you?
11 February 2009 - 4:41pm
#19
My turn to be busy this week! Maybe see how next week goes...
28 May 2009 - 11:28am
#20
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lapiseyed/sets/72157618881711950/
Not many photos, and none of that main stretch along the highway, but it's something.
28 May 2009 - 4:59pm
#21
choss!
there was chalk on the bendigo proj yesterday...
v-sick!
14 February 2010 - 8:42am
#22
Had a sniff around Rocky Point yesterday. Funky water worn schist with cool bouldering in the trees!! Worth dropping in for a look at some stage and take some tape to fix the broom. Also a saw might be handy to clean up some windfall.
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