Banks Peninsula
17 May 2010 - 5:04pm
Hey I'm going to be living in Akaroa during the months of June and July and am looking for partners to show me around some stuff on the Peninsula. From the States, been climbing many years, haven't dropped anybody yet, have sporty gear, propensity for choss and own transport.
If that sounds too sketchy, I'd gladly take Peninsula crag recomendations and try to talk my wife into doing some early winter climbing.
18 May 2010 - 1:59am
#2
have sporty gear, propensity for choss and own transport
2 for 3 ain't bad (no trad gear means no Mt Bradley...the best crag on the BP)
A propensity for choss is almost alway a bonus though ;-)
Seriously though, with just sport gear, there are still some good crags on Banks Peninsula to check out.
If you climb 5.11ish, Te Oka might be of interest (I don't climb that hard, so always kept driving on the way past).
For 5.10 and below there are:
Dawn Wall (largest number of sport lines)
Devils Gap (~10 good quality sport lines + easy approach)
Peraki Valley (longest routes in the BP/Chch area, 4x easy-moderate, 1x 5.11, unfortunately not really a winter crag)
If you drive to Christchurch, there are of course Transmitter and Britten crags as well.
Unfortunately, I can't give you the tour myself, but I can help you with beta for some of the more obscure crags (e.g. Devils Gap and Peraki Valley).
cheers,
Gabe
19 May 2010 - 3:52pm
#3
Thanks for the beta, I'll try and check those places out when we get back there in June.
I'm flipping thru SI Rock and don't see Dawn or Devil's. Not much info on RC.com either.
Noticed Devil's is posted as closed. Still the case? (Coming from the Red River Gorge I'm fully aware of outsiders cocking up access.) Feel free to PM or e-mail me if you don't want to dish in an open forum.
19 May 2010 - 10:43pm
#4
Thanks for the beta, I'll try and check those places out when we get back there in June.
I'm flipping thru SI Rock and don't see Dawn or Devil's. Not much info on RC.com either.
Noticed Devil's is posted as closed. Still the case? (Coming from the Red River Gorge I'm fully aware of outsiders cocking up access.) Feel free to PM or e-mail me if you don't want to dish in an open forum.
AFAIK, DG is open again. You must contact the farmer before heading out though. I can PM you his contact info.
If you have SI Rock from 2004, the Dawn Wall is on page 259.
19 May 2010 - 8:18pm
#5
If you come from the Red you will be pretty disappointed with things like Devils Gap.
What do you climb grade wise?
19 May 2010 - 10:09pm
#6
If you come from the Red you will be pretty disappointed with things like Devils Gap.
What do you climb grade wise?
If he's disappointed with DG, then he's going to be disappointed with most of Canterbury...
5 July 2010 - 10:40am
#7
Phisically I don't climb as hard as I do in my mind...so the sport at Te Oka, Brasenose and Kaik look a little stiff for my tastes at this point. Was out at Otepatuotu the other day to checking out the scenery. Looks like a nice setting, but alas not trad gear. Didn't notice any bolts, is slung gorse a good anchor?
Basically, I've been a lame wade and haven't gotten out to climb anything. All this rain sucks, but hey it is winter. And while the Red migh have good cragging, IMO you can't beat the setting of the rock out here on BP. Like sea climbing in the mountains??? If the skies part and anyone ventures way out on the Peninsula shoot me an e-mail or message if you want a partner.
5 July 2010 - 6:34pm
#8
You should go amuse yourself with the bouldering in the Castle Hill Basin ( you have seen"The big game" ? People would never forgive you if you went to NZ and didn't experience Castle (and the better) Flock Hill
Hi,
I heard about a place where you can climb in Lyttelton (it's close to Christchurch city center) called "Castle Rock"... I spend a while in Akaroa last summer but I haven't really found places to climb....
Good Luck, Enjoy Akaroa!