Auckland Boulder Series 2008

52 replies [Last post]
oldun
oldun's picture
Offline
Joined: 10 Sep 2005
Posts:

Here it comes again, Winter's winding up, can't go on for much longer...

But, like a much awaited spring wake up to get you amped and psyched for a summer of cranking.

Once More, Coming at you Hyper, The first installment of the Auckland Boulder Series. First edition on the 19th of September,

You've been given a months warning to get strong, No excuses...

This will be a monthly event, with a grand finale in Movember.

The more the merrier, Tell your friend, Tell your Neighbor, Tell your Dog, Tell your Nanna, Bring the pain!!

There's Beginner, Intermediate and Advanced, Something for everyone, It's a great social event, no real need or expectation for you to spend the next month training, but...

Email Aucklandboulderseries at Gmail dot com for more info

(no dogs allowed)

Getting up in the game since ages ago...

Myxomatosis
Offline
Joined: 7 Dec 2007
Posts:

TEAM EXTREME!!!

Eats ignimbrite for breakfast

J.Gunn
J.Gunn's picture
Offline
Joined: 22 May 2008
Posts:

where's it held?

oldun
oldun's picture
Offline
Joined: 10 Sep 2005
Posts:

Damn, Who Told that guy?!?!?! :roll:

It's at a super dooper secret location

Nobody tell Gunn it's at:

The Extreme Edge,
40c Morrin Rd,
Panmure.

I was hoping to build the hype and explode onto the scene with the venue just before the comp, build the suspense...

I won't admit to forgetting the most important piece of info, Damn you Gunn!

:lol:

Getting up in the game since ages ago...

J.Gunn
J.Gunn's picture
Offline
Joined: 22 May 2008
Posts:

it's ok. some people are just bad at life. all we can do is help them along.

:lol:

pullin ya'leg!

I think I'm going to help put up some probs for this, so Morgan... you may just have a shot at a podium placing!

Bahaha! :twisted:

furryfren
furryfren's picture
Offline
Joined: 11 May 2008
Posts:

EXTREME!!

lordlinty
lordlinty's picture
Offline
Joined: 30 Jul 2007
Posts:

So when are the rest of the dates then? Nearest to 19th October and November or 4 weeks from first date?

I need to sort out stupid work around dates.

Cheers

oldun
oldun's picture
Offline
Joined: 10 Sep 2005
Posts:

Right, the next dates are:

October 17th, Friday evening
And
November 15th, The grand final which will be a Saturday evening.

Getting up in the game since ages ago...

lordlinty
lordlinty's picture
Offline
Joined: 30 Jul 2007
Posts:

Cheers!

And for once I don't need to juggle work. Excellent.

oldun
oldun's picture
Offline
Joined: 10 Sep 2005
Posts:

Here it comes,

Here it comes,

Wait for it, Wait for it...

Getting up in the game since ages ago...

oldun
oldun's picture
Offline
Joined: 10 Sep 2005
Posts:

BOOM!!! :o

Ok, more info...

A few of the sponsors are: Vaude, Rock Empire, Metolius...

Registration opens at 6.30pm and The Comp itself runs from 7pm to 9.30.

The cost is $15 for non members and only $8 for Extreme Edge members.

Oooh It's getting Exciting... :shock:

The Gauntlet has been thrown down, Bring it on Team Rockhouse! Anyone from the H town Massive? you're all welcome to share the pain... :)

To add to the Excitement, There'll be a prize for the best costume...
There's a viscous (yes I mean thick and sticky as opposed to the mean and nasty vicious) rumor that there's a climber out there with a Dinosaur costume...

Getting up in the game since ages ago...

Myxomatosis
Offline
Joined: 7 Dec 2007
Posts:

EXXXXXXTREME!!!!

Eats ignimbrite for breakfast

J.Gunn
J.Gunn's picture
Offline
Joined: 22 May 2008
Posts:

what what! auckland boulder series with competitors from outside of Jaff-Town?

UNHEARD OF!

haha, should be cool if we get some new faces for sure!

extreme indeed, exiting indeed... need more ex' words...

oldun
oldun's picture
Offline
Joined: 10 Sep 2005
Posts:

Oooh, extra extra extra, Koru holds has just joined the sponsors wagon, those sexy holds from the mount will be gracing the walls of the edge for you lucky competitors too, you know you want some...

Getting up in the game since ages ago...

J.Gunn
J.Gunn's picture
Offline
Joined: 22 May 2008
Posts:

THE HYPE!

:twisted:

Myxomatosis
Offline
Joined: 7 Dec 2007
Posts:

Come on Team Rockhouse and Hamilton Extreme Edge guys.... this will be a battle to end all battles... a battle to decide who is the most Extreme Team in the top of the North Island..... (ok its Round 1 of 3 but you get the idea)

Don't forget the prize's for best customue :lol: I saw Dino warming up last week, he was pretty unstoppable with those chicken feet.

Eats ignimbrite for breakfast

tombelgrano
tombelgrano's picture
Offline
Joined: 11 Mar 2008
Posts:

one can only speculate at the body count...
any idea what the rough boulder grades are for the 3 cats?

oldun
oldun's picture
Offline
Joined: 10 Sep 2005
Posts:

I'm not using boulder grades as it's a bit hard for most beginner/intermediate climbers to get their head around...

Beginner, 17 to 20ish (up to V1)
Intermediate 19 to 25ish (V1 to V4 or 5)
Advanced 25+ (V something to something harder, 4 to 9ish)

Getting up in the game since ages ago...

Myxomatosis
Offline
Joined: 7 Dec 2007
Posts:

Everyone should come and enter, no matter what grade you climb or if you only do routes OR even if you "don't do competitions".

The only person you are competing with is yourself, just like normal climbing. Its fun, everyone cheers you on and without a doubt, you will probably learn something to help your climbing along..

There are no excuses...... (see what I did there,,, chucked in another EX :lol: )

Eats ignimbrite for breakfast

Rad
Rad's picture
Offline
Joined: 13 Aug 2003
Posts:

Maybe you should change your name to mEXomatosis?

-[GO TEAM ROCKHOUSE]-
The journey of a thousand miles starts with the first step

tombelgrano
tombelgrano's picture
Offline
Joined: 11 Mar 2008
Posts:

rad, cheers rad, intermediates sounding gd, there was some fellow speaking smack about not bothering in int. if u couldnt do v4s and 5s...theres always spot prizes!

tombelgrano
tombelgrano's picture
Offline
Joined: 11 Mar 2008
Posts:

i knew id win a spot prize, have to get a podium next time! at least i didnt pop a phone condom on my head...

lordlinty
lordlinty's picture
Offline
Joined: 30 Jul 2007
Posts:

I need more time for the next comp!

My sheet was hardly even half complete when the time ran out.

Still good though despite somewhat miserly score.

I'm just wondering how long the problems will stay up for....

Myxomatosis
Offline
Joined: 7 Dec 2007
Posts:

"lordlinty" wrote:
I need more time for the next comp!

My sheet was hardly even half complete when the time ran out.

Still good though despite somewhat miserly score.

I'm just wondering how long the problems will stay up for....

I think the plan was to keep up all the ones that don't effect other climbs (screw in's and boulder wall's are probably safe)

But they will be taken down for the next comp 8)

Eats ignimbrite for breakfast

lordlinty
lordlinty's picture
Offline
Joined: 30 Jul 2007
Posts:

And lastly, how about a map for the next comp please?

I must have walked round the place more than a few times looking for a small and elusive number label.

J.Gunn
J.Gunn's picture
Offline
Joined: 22 May 2008
Posts:

"lordlinty" wrote:
And lastly, how about a map for the next comp please?

I must have walked round the place more than a few times looking for a small and elusive number label.

haha, ditto...

2* #10 made it interesting too!

J.Gunn
J.Gunn's picture
Offline
Joined: 22 May 2008
Posts:

"Myxomatosis" wrote:
I think the plan was to keep up all the ones that don't effect other climbs (screw in's and boulder wall's are probably safe)

But they will be taken down for the next comp 8)

afaik:

-the boulder problems that 'cross' routes of the same colour holds will be stripped entirely.

-the problems on the the wall considered to be the 'main lead wall' will be taken down to open up t-nut slots for new lead climbs.

-all holds not owned by the 'gym' have been taken off and put back onto the boulder block.

-and problems using the "koru" holds have been taken down (to preserve their condition).

additionally - I think that 'arete' wall (to the right of the 'main lead wall') will become more 'embellished' with holds like the boulder block in between comps.

oldun
oldun's picture
Offline
Joined: 10 Sep 2005
Posts:

Here comes the nEXt EXtremely EXciting installment, 'EXpletive' Yeah!!!!!
(in case you didn't notice, they're EXclamation marks)

So EXciting, I needed more EX's

Massive thanks to Dawn and The GUNN for resetting the wall after the last comp, bit of a thankless job, with little or no glory, Muchos Gracias!!! :D

Getting up in the game since ages ago...

J.Gunn
J.Gunn's picture
Offline
Joined: 22 May 2008
Posts:

lovin the 'all caps' nickname :oops: haha!

I'm always keen to help. Would have LOVED to set all the advanced problems too... but apparently thats cheating...

Hopefully Rich shows up for round 2! It's not bouldering without Rich!

Myxomatosis
Offline
Joined: 7 Dec 2007
Posts:

We need some harder Int. prob's this time 8) I could do them all easy (except Ketz's blue Koru) but could only get one adv. prob :(

Eats ignimbrite for breakfast

oldun
oldun's picture
Offline
Joined: 10 Sep 2005
Posts:

Hmmm, Hint; To make the most of your time, Warm up on a few of the Beginner problems, move to a few intermediate then hit the advanced problems.

Interestingly, you entered intermediate? did most of the intermediate and 1 of the advanced? sounds like a good spread... Mike who won the intermediate managed 3 advanced problems so you're not far off the mark and He only managed them due to his dogged determination...
The dyno to the pinches took about 20 attempts... (when i first tried it i thought it was not possible, took me 5 attempts)(with a bung thumb though)

Ideally in each category I expect the winners to manage everything in their category and 1 or 2 from the next category (in the Mens that is)
With each problem being progressively harder (not sequentially though) You'd expect everyone to split off at different points, STRATEGY plays a big part, you get more points for a flash, if you watch someone else first you'll have the beta. If you try and onsight it, you may miss something and not get it, that's the beauty of bouldering with others...
With only 1 tie in the beginner category I reckon we had a great spread of difficulties...
My only downer is we had 2 problems that saw no ascents, Ideally only 1 'tie breaker' uberhard would have been better.
Ketzl's blue Koru spat many people off simply because many of the gym climbers are not used to open hand/slopers, (due to the range of holds we all train on...) Train more!!!

We should have all the rankings up in the gym next week so you can all see where you stand.

Getting up in the game since ages ago...

Myxomatosis
Offline
Joined: 7 Dec 2007
Posts:

Yo... yeah good points... my strategy was quite flawed and the one advanced I got was a few days after the comp when I wasn't so pumped. I thought the Int would be way to hard for me, so concentrated on them before trying any Adv problem.

Anyway.... I had fun and I dont think you could really knock the effort you guys put in (organisation/problems/fun factor were all extreme) :) Hopefully Ill be able to climb for the next one 8)

PS: Ya Ketz's koru was my favourite prob 8)

Edit: Ohhh and the adv problem under the roof... crazy green sloper hold with a heel hook toe hook combo for feet... now that was EXTREME!

Eats ignimbrite for breakfast

oldun
oldun's picture
Offline
Joined: 10 Sep 2005
Posts:

Yup, I loved setting that one, 5 BIG holds and it was super cool, that sloper... What more do i need to say about it...

Rest those arms...

Getting up in the game since ages ago...

oldun
oldun's picture
Offline
Joined: 10 Sep 2005
Posts:

5 days to go till Session 2 :D

Remember, Registration opens at 6.30, First 50 people get a free bag of chalk...
(valued at approx $3 so your already getting Great value for money... :wink: )

For those worried, I'm planning on wearing some bigger shorts this time.

Getting up in the game since ages ago...

lordlinty
lordlinty's picture
Offline
Joined: 30 Jul 2007
Posts:

Ok, stabbing acute pain on inside of elbows, forearms and shoulders. What that mean?

I could just conclude drunken arm wrestling weekend previous = Bad but I'd much rather have someone tell me it will go away by Friday.

Come on. Re-assure me.

I should really post this in injuries and training or something but I'm hardly going to miss the comp to recover...

oldun
oldun's picture
Offline
Joined: 10 Sep 2005
Posts:

GO SEE A PHYSIO!!!

You and Myxamatosis are bad! rather than asking someone to diagnose via the internet without actually being able to pinpoint a problem, Go see someone physically, in person, who may be able to tell you it's just a nerve, or you've done some serious injury, and maybe prescribe something for it...

Drugs are not all bad... :twisted:

Even if you still plan on climbing on friday, a physio can't physically stop you climbing before then, but they can help repair you on monday. it's better to start recovery sooner rather than later,

Ice, Rest, Physio, Voltarin, Rest, Physio, Voltarin Gel, Rest, Physio, Heat, Rest, Physio, massage, rest, panadol in no particular order... I have no professional, informed opinion to give but Hey, You asked...

Getting up in the game since ages ago...

oldun
oldun's picture
Offline
Joined: 10 Sep 2005
Posts:

See you friday...

Getting up in the game since ages ago...

Myxomatosis
Offline
Joined: 7 Dec 2007
Posts:

"lordlinty" wrote:
Ok, stabbing acute pain on inside of elbows, forearms and shoulders. What that mean?

I could just conclude drunken arm wrestling weekend previous = Bad but I'd much rather have someone tell me it will go away by Friday.

Come on. Re-assure me.

I should really post this in injuries and training or something but I'm hardly going to miss the comp to recover...

Doesn't sound like what I have... but its taken nearly three weeks and I can still feel mine :oops: Prob see a Phsyio like Oldun said :)

But yes.. voltaren gel with deep massage works well to stop it from getting worse but it does mask the problem, so be careful. If its not muscle, then its probably tendon's and only thing for them is rest and no climbing full stop.

oldun... I knew what I had done... was just looking for ways to avoid it in future :) :D If it started to get worse or wasn't healing... I'd be queing up at the physio :wink: 8)

Anyway... im gonna lite traverse tonight to see how it is... if its still bad, Ill be the EXTREME camera man 8) :lol:

Eats ignimbrite for breakfast

lordlinty
lordlinty's picture
Offline
Joined: 30 Jul 2007
Posts:

Gel on. Awaiting miraculous results.

Will hopefully get to a physio tomorrow as well.

I just can't believe it came on so quick - and so severely.

I guess I'll join the masses that I once scorned in their extensive stretching and warmup from now on.

J.Gunn
J.Gunn's picture
Offline
Joined: 22 May 2008
Posts:

good times for round 2!

more of the same please! :-D

oldun
oldun's picture
Offline
Joined: 10 Sep 2005
Posts:

Building the hype again... :oops:
Puff, Puff, Puff It's hard work all this building... :)
We had 95 competitors last round, Super massive extreme fun for all!!!

MASSIVE props to the 'H Town Massive' for tearing it up last comp, You guys were Kick ass! Haven't seen a team with as much support in a long time.

More News:
This round there will be even MORE problems :twisted:
We've got more sponsors,
More time and more moreness, in fact so much moreness there'll be more for everyone...

:lol:

Getting up in the game since ages ago...

J.Gunn
J.Gunn's picture
Offline
Joined: 22 May 2008
Posts:

keen to get me some of this MORE'NESS!

EX'TREME-MORE'NESS!

oldun
oldun's picture
Offline
Joined: 10 Sep 2005
Posts:

Points and placings from round 2 will be posted at the edge tomorrow...

Getting up in the game since ages ago...

Myxomatosis
Offline
Joined: 7 Dec 2007
Posts:

"oldun" wrote:
Points and placings from round 2 will be posted at the edge tomorrow...

YAY I came 2nd to last.... :lol: :lol: :lol:

Eats ignimbrite for breakfast

J.Gunn
J.Gunn's picture
Offline
Joined: 22 May 2008
Posts:

needs more hype zane!

8 days to go! start throwing around rumors of big prize packs... :-D

tombelgrano
tombelgrano's picture
Offline
Joined: 11 Mar 2008
Posts:

"Myxomatosis" wrote:
"oldun" wrote:
Points and placings from round 2 will be posted at the edge tomorrow...

YAY I came 2nd to last.... :lol: :lol: :lol:

i managed a cool 21st= 8) with that kind of exposure im not gonna bother buying a boulder mat, il just wait till bd send me a couple of mondos

oldun
oldun's picture
Offline
Joined: 10 Sep 2005
Posts:

You guys...

Good to hear your tendinitis is improving Myxo :)

As for the hype Gunn...

So, what's on the board mrs Ford?
Petzl has come in with some cool art.
Big prize packs you say? How does a 35L Vaude pack sound? Big enough to hold heaps and Oh my gosh they are amazing!!! Trust me, You want one!

This round we're going bigger, just ordered our biggest swag of prizes yet, It's a lucky thing I've got a van.
I think we'll have spot prizes gushing out of our over laden arms, And some super duper category prizes too

Getting up in the game since ages ago...

bracciolo22
Offline
Joined: 28 Oct 2008
Posts:

guys please! try to manage to make some t-shirts, i come from italy and i WANT to go back with a souvenir if u know what i mean!!

see you soon bros!

Myxomatosis
Offline
Joined: 7 Dec 2007
Posts:

"tombelgrano" wrote:
"Myxomatosis" wrote:
"oldun" wrote:
Points and placings from round 2 will be posted at the edge tomorrow...

YAY I came 2nd to last.... :lol: :lol: :lol:

i managed a cool 21st= 8) with that kind of exposure im not gonna bother buying a boulder mat, il just wait till bd send me a couple of mondos

:lol: :lol: :lol:, perhaps we should train hard for next year.. .get some BD rep's to come in and watch us carve it up :wink:

Well im quite suprised I came 2nd to last... I only did a couple of int's and then worked on the adv problems :lol:

Eats ignimbrite for breakfast

tombelgrano
tombelgrano's picture
Offline
Joined: 11 Mar 2008
Posts:

i flashed all the ints apart from 2 and was still 21st??? i think we have some over modest climbers :roll: and myxo, pffft for training, just come down to the hill at new years

Myxomatosis
Offline
Joined: 7 Dec 2007
Posts:

"tombelgrano" wrote:
i flashed all the ints apart from 2 and was still 21st??? i think we have some over modest climbers :roll: and myxo, pffft for training, just come down to the hill at new years

Some of the adv. were easier this time (arete problem had easier beta (eg big move to left jug)... and the two on the main face were do-able)... so alot of people picked up those extra 30 points there.

If you actually look at the scores.. there were people finishing one point between each other from like 115 to 121... so it was VERY close.

Me and my belayer were planning a road trip from Xmas till new years (two weeks of dirt baggin) but I am now flying to Aussie for the break :)

Eats ignimbrite for breakfast