Sinclar sends hardest route in the North Island?
On Friday 22nd of November local Auckland powerhouse Ewan Sinclar finally made the first repeat of Scott Mooney's ultra classic "Built to Last" (29) at Frogatt Edge in the Waikato.
The route was put up by Scott wayyyy back in 99 and has never been close to being repeated until now. The classic overhanging line is situated on the "Hold on to your Face Wall". It has an extremely bouldery start for the first section into a heinous mantle onto a slopy ledge. The route is generally considered to be solid 28 to this point. After a quick shake you then launch directly into the crux headwall of "Double Leaning Jowler", another solid 28 section. Along with Kester Browns "Trinity" (30) at Whanganui Bay this is probably the hardest route in the North Island. In typical Mooney fashion Scott originally wanted to call it 27.
Ewan's send last Friday brings to the end a long and frustrating battle with the route over the last few years, including a dislocated shoulder whilst attempting the mantle a few years back (thats what you get for secret training!) After looking close on the route over the past few weeks Ewan sent on his 4th try of the day (The first time he or anyone had ever climbed through the mantle section). Off to The States in December Ewan is sure to get in some hard sends in Rifle before he returns.
The route was put up by Scott wayyyy back in 99 and has never been close to being repeated until now. The classic overhanging line is situated on the "Hold on to your Face Wall". It has an extremely bouldery start for the first section into a heinous mantle onto a slopy ledge. The route is generally considered to be solid 28 to this point. After a quick shake you then launch directly into the crux headwall of "Double Leaning Jowler", another solid 28 section. Along with Kester Browns "Trinity" (30) at Whanganui Bay this is probably the hardest route in the North Island. In typical Mooney fashion Scott originally wanted to call it 27.
Ewan's send last Friday brings to the end a long and frustrating battle with the route over the last few years, including a dislocated shoulder whilst attempting the mantle a few years back (thats what you get for secret training!) After looking close on the route over the past few weeks Ewan sent on his 4th try of the day (The first time he or anyone had ever climbed through the mantle section). Off to The States in December Ewan is sure to get in some hard sends in Rifle before he returns.