Lakeside Topo and Photos
The climbing at Lakeside is all good with many routes of real quality. Those “Thugs” who dismiss Waipapa as “too slabby” are missing out and probably consciously/subconsciously avoiding their weaknesses. For example I’ve heard of one high twenties “thuggy” sport climber getting spanked on “Industrial Action” although this might have been due to the wires originally needed at the top (it’s got a bolt now)
These photos were taken in April and July with the July day being one of the colder days of the year. Once the sun got onto the crag it was great all afternoon; T-shirt weather. Spring and Autumn are great times to climb here. Summer is good in the morning but a tad hot in the afternoon. For example Stalemate was put up in January in the morning but it would have been much harder in the afternoon.
The following are the current 2 and 3 star routes.
Beauty. ** Gr 22:- technical arête; great moves, tricky sequence.
The Beast. ** Gr 26:- shortish, powerful and technical series of moves. Continue up from the belay of “Beauty”
Love Handle Expansion. ** Gr 24:- Hard start (you’ll probably fall off) then sustained, interesting climbing with a thoughtful finish (do the move, don’t grab the chain 1st). Be careful coming down; route is 26m long
Rule of the Red Rose. *** Gr 28:- and Stalemate Gr 28:- Both look a bit blank! Thin, complex climbing (thug’s nightmare)
(note: on the previous three routes a 50m rope will get you down if you are careful)
Outside Edge ** Gr25/26:- Awesome corner start followed by a hard, technical crux higher up. Has a double friend placement higher up (be competent at placing friends)
Rolling Stoppages. ** Gr 26:- Absorbing vertical square arête climbing. Thin and technical (well there’s a surprise)
Industrial Action. *** A really great 22. Best on Ignimbrite? Series of different features which just flow together.
Morning Glory *** Gr 27:-Thin bridging. Looks blank to me but also looks awesome. Go for it.
Drop me in the Water. ** Gr 26. Another awesome looking technical bridging line.
The other routes are all worthwhile with some real challenges amongst them e.g.
Route Rustlers * Gr 25 (26 say Rich). keep on your toes on the run out section between bolts 4 and 5.
Kevin’s Route * Gr 22/3:- Surprisingly hard crux. Practise your lassoing for the stump!
Fingers and Thumbs * Gr 25:- Only 25 and not the least pumpy but I reckon you are almost certain not to on-sight this one!
The Thumb Gr 22:- Boulder start then easier, then harder then easier. A good roped boulder.
There isn’t much easier stuff here at the moment but we are working on it. However it is only 10-15 minutes walk from the car-park and 20 minutes from the Main Crag. See the Waipapa guide available at Bryce’s for how to get there.
These photos were taken in April and July with the July day being one of the colder days of the year. Once the sun got onto the crag it was great all afternoon; T-shirt weather. Spring and Autumn are great times to climb here. Summer is good in the morning but a tad hot in the afternoon. For example Stalemate was put up in January in the morning but it would have been much harder in the afternoon.
The following are the current 2 and 3 star routes.
Beauty. ** Gr 22:- technical arête; great moves, tricky sequence.
The Beast. ** Gr 26:- shortish, powerful and technical series of moves. Continue up from the belay of “Beauty”
Love Handle Expansion. ** Gr 24:- Hard start (you’ll probably fall off) then sustained, interesting climbing with a thoughtful finish (do the move, don’t grab the chain 1st). Be careful coming down; route is 26m long
Rule of the Red Rose. *** Gr 28:- and Stalemate Gr 28:- Both look a bit blank! Thin, complex climbing (thug’s nightmare)
(note: on the previous three routes a 50m rope will get you down if you are careful)
Outside Edge ** Gr25/26:- Awesome corner start followed by a hard, technical crux higher up. Has a double friend placement higher up (be competent at placing friends)
Rolling Stoppages. ** Gr 26:- Absorbing vertical square arête climbing. Thin and technical (well there’s a surprise)
Industrial Action. *** A really great 22. Best on Ignimbrite? Series of different features which just flow together.
Morning Glory *** Gr 27:-Thin bridging. Looks blank to me but also looks awesome. Go for it.
Drop me in the Water. ** Gr 26. Another awesome looking technical bridging line.
The other routes are all worthwhile with some real challenges amongst them e.g.
Route Rustlers * Gr 25 (26 say Rich). keep on your toes on the run out section between bolts 4 and 5.
Kevin’s Route * Gr 22/3:- Surprisingly hard crux. Practise your lassoing for the stump!
Fingers and Thumbs * Gr 25:- Only 25 and not the least pumpy but I reckon you are almost certain not to on-sight this one!
The Thumb Gr 22:- Boulder start then easier, then harder then easier. A good roped boulder.
There isn’t much easier stuff here at the moment but we are working on it. However it is only 10-15 minutes walk from the car-park and 20 minutes from the Main Crag. See the Waipapa guide available at Bryce’s for how to get there.