Interview with Matthew Painting

The 15year old headed to France on September 11th, for the championships on the 26th-29th of September, held in Rouen, Canteleu , along the way the team managed to catch up with the "Coppa del Mondo Arrampicaca bouldering" competition.

It looks like some mad sloper action on some of those huge holds

So Matt what did you think of the bouldering competition ?

MP: The bouldering was awesome! It was constructed in the middle of a small town ( Rovereto in North Italy ) with a large group of international climbers (including New Zealands sole entry Emma Hawke) pulling off wacked-up moves that look amazing. The competion ran into the night with spectators filling the street yelling and cheering on the finalists.

This guy looks pretty famous, who is he ?

MP: This guy is Oscar, from Italy. He was a bouldering route setter and not famous (apart from the girls falling in love with him) here he is making a bet with our team for the winner of the males category because he needed money for cigarettes.

More pics at the bottom of this page

Next up was the youth world champs - The event was spread over 3 days. There were 50 - 60 competitors in each class from all corners of the globe in Matts class (youth B males) there were 52 entries. Arguably New Zealand being the farthest away. The champs were held at Centre Alain Calmat this is a large sport/event centre in Canteleu.

Matt this is your first time in world competition and your first time in climbing gyms outside of New Zealand, how much bigger and what are they like to climb at ? The pictures look like the might not do them justice..

MP: The Mur Mur training gyms in Lyon and Paris were from another world they were HUGE! If you take the Taupo wall and make it the walls 25-30 metres high with climbing walls on all four sides you would get abit of a idea. On these faces there is everything from roof to slab, crimps to jugs, large stalactites and boulders. The competition wall wasn't as large as the training gyms with mainly vertical faces with a roof at the top.

What was it like climbing with this many people ? Did it affect you mentally ?

MP: I found it scary with such a large audience at first when I came out of isolation, having butterflies in my stomach. When I came out for my second climb I was feeling better as my coaches (James Maguire and Emma Hawke) told me how to focus better and be more mentally equipped.

Back in Aoteoroa, when Training Matt climbs 3 days a week for 4 hours a time at Birkenhead Leisure centre and is a member of the NZ Development Squad. He attends training camps throughout the year (taken by James and Emma) and is coached by Andrew Trotter at Birkenhead.

Matt can you let us in your training regime ? any special diet or is it good staple Wendys & Meat Pies ?

MP: Well i havent got a regime to be completely honest, I do try to add one in having to do a weeks of endurance, a weeks of power and a weeks of power endurance. But I dont have any diets only mums sunday roasts (cheers mum), loads of lollies (cheers to my dental nurse), and everything else a young boy eats (I love my microwave pasta meals). Dad tries to stop me drinking Coke and beer and makes me eat a banana before each competition climb. I go for runs and I love to moutain bike or sport with my mates.

What about Bouldering vs Climbing, which do you enjoy more ? do more often ?

MP: I dont boulder much but I am trying to build on it, As I want to build up my power and contact strength. Bouldering I find is much more sociable being able to work a problem with a group of awesome people, laughing when someone peels off and face plants [Ed: Morbid Character this Matt is]. I prefer to Lead climb mostly because it relates to the competitions I do.

So how about getting away from the plastic and out on the real rock ? Do you get out much on rock ? Enjoy it ?

MP: I prefer the real rock loads more than the indoor stuff, since I'm only 15 and dont drive yet I have major troubles getting places. I would love to get outdoors more often than I do, and thats one of my goals for this year.

What does the future hold for you, where would you like to go from here ?

MP: The future?.... well I would love to go climbing around the world outdoors, especially in Thailand and Europe, I would also like to help younger climbers in the future to reach their goals...... and do my bit for world peace (hahaha)

Any last words ?

MP: I would like to thank everyone who has helped me getting me this far in my climbing: mum and dad, coaches, team mates, and climbing friends.

More information
www.nzsf.org.nz
www.ffme.fr (if you can read french)
www.ffme.fr/escalade/resultat/2002/09worldchampionship.pdf (results)